Port Stephens by caravan: Sand dunes, wartime history and a crocodile swim

Port Stephens is a giant natural harbour an hour north of Newcastle — more than twice the size of Sydney Harbour, wrapped by the Tomaree Peninsula and fringed by more than 26 sheltered beaches, with dolphins in the shallows and whales offshore in winter.

I think it’s a dream caravanning destination: calm, family-friendly bays on one side and the biggest moving sand dunes in the country on the other. There’s more than enough to fill several days, and it’s all close together, so you can base the van right on the water and explore without long drives.

It has long been a landmark for anyone travelling this coast — it even once made a list of possible sites for the nation’s capital. I based myself in a caravan park near Birubi Beach, right on the bay, and packed in a few big days.

Here’s what not to miss.

If there’s one thing everyone does in Port Stephens, it’s the Tomaree Head summit walk — a 2.2-kilometre round trip on a moderate incline and the perfect place to get your bearings.

From the top you get the whole peninsula laid out below, and in winter it’s one of the best free seats on the coast for watching the whales head north.

On the way up, tucked into the bush, is a piece of history most people walk straight past: Fort Tomaree. Back in 1941, as war crept closer, this headland became part of a defensive ring guarding the Hunter’s port and Williamtown airbase — with six-inch guns, searchlights and even torpedo tubes at the water, and around 500 people stationed here.

The guns are long gone, but more than 80 years on, the concrete still stands.

Port Stephens is home to the largest moving coastal sand dunes in the Southern Hemisphere — 32 kilometres of sand, up to a kilometre wide, with dunes taller than a 10-storey building.

And they’re alive: the whole system creeps north about four metres a year, burying the bush and uncovering what came before.

The best way to experience it is with Sand Dune Adventures, the local Aboriginal-owned operator on Worimi Country. My guide Scotty — a proud Worimi man with 15 years’ experience — took me out on a quad bike, past ancient middens and stone-tool sites, and shared the stories behind the landscape.

You can sandboard, ride a camel or just let the kids run up the dunes. Scotty’s tip: do the camels first, then the quads.

And if it looks a bit much? Trust me, it’s easier than it looks and an absolute blast.

Not far down the road is a spot caravanners travel across the country for — but timing is everything.

Fingal Spit is a bridge of sand nearly a kilometre long that appears only at low tide, linking the beach to Fingal Island and its lighthouse. It’s beautiful, but it can also be genuinely dangerous: you should only cross when the tide is out and the sand is dry, because when the water is over it, the sea makes the decision for you.

Check the tide chart, respect the warnings and you’ll be rewarded with an unforgettable walk out towards a lighthouse island.

If you’ve got a young family — or it’s a rainy day — Animal Adventures is a must, and it’s very different.

I started gently, with parrots on my shoulder (Rio and Tango) and a coastal python named Colin, before things escalated: I put on a safety vest and got into the water with Rocksteady, a 4.8-metre, 800-kilogram saltwater crocodile.

Saltwater crocs have the strongest bite force of any animal on the planet — at his length, that’s around 4,800 pounds per square inch.

Getting in beside him was equal parts terrifying and unforgettable, and easily one of the highlights of the trip.

For quieter moments, the peninsula hides dozens of tucked-away beaches.

Wreck Beach is a peaceful white-sand cove with views of Broughton Island, and most days you’ll have it to yourself. Boat Harbour, just south, is a rocky little cove made for a swim, a wander along the rock platforms and — if the timing’s right — watching whales roll past offshore.

The water was a touch chilly on my visit, so I settled for soaking up the sun instead.

My home for Port Stephens was the Gator X from JB Caravans, tucked into a park right on the bay — and it has all the bells and whistles while still making the trip feel like an adventure.

Inside there’s a proper bathroom and laundry — washing machine, toilet, shower and even a full-length mirror — a dining table you can eat or work from, a full kitchen and the comfiest bed to fall into after a big day.

Setup was quicker than expected, which meant more time out exploring.

Because experiences like these don’t just happen — you need a good base to come back to every night. The van gives you exactly that: comfort when you want it, and the freedom to chase whatever the day throws at you.

From a wartime fort and the biggest dunes in the hemisphere to a swim with a crocodile and a sand bridge leading towards a lighthouse, Port Stephens packs an astonishing amount into an hour north of Newcastle.

Ten out of ten; it has so much to offer.

Getting there: About 2.5 hours north of Sydney and an hour from Newcastle.

Where to stay: Anna Bay and Birubi Beach caravan parks put you close to the dunes and the bay.

Best time to go: Winter for whales; year-round for the dunes, beaches and family activities.

Don’t miss: Tomaree Head and Fort Tomaree, the Stockton dunes with Sand Dune Adventures, Fingal Spit and Animal Adventures.