Travel: Western Australia's Capes and Caves

By Colin Kerr

At this time of year many travellers, particularly those with time on their hands in the comfort of a motorhome, are thinking of touring Western Australia to check out the area’s legendary wildflowers.

Starting in northern and central regions of the state in late winter, WA’s beautiful wildflowers progressively burst into life. Further south, usually in late August and early September, fields of everlasting daisies can be seen.

As spring rolls on, the wildflower show can be seen throughout the whole south-west corner of the State.

In southern regions like the Stirling Ranges and along the south coast, there is still plenty of colour to be seen in late spring and even into early summer– with good autumn and early winter rains, this year should be one of the west’s best flowering seasons for several years.

Once you’ve taken in just about as many wildflowers as you can bear, one of the best touring options is to indulge in a dose of Margaret River ‘magic’ and explore one of the State’s most appealing regions – the Limestone Coast.

Timeless beauty

Just 300km south of Perth in the far south-west corner of WA, the small coastal strip between the two horn-like capes which jut out into the Indian Ocean is host to some of the country’s roughest, most dramatic coastal scenery, magnificent tall timber forests and beautiful underground caves.

These features, however, are only part of the magic that draws increasing numbers of visitors to this area every year. It’s an idyllic stopover a world away from the hustle and bustle of modern city life.

This unique, far-flung corner of the Australian continent, which stretches from Cape Leeuwin in the south to Cape Naturaliste some 120km away to the north, is known as the Leeuwin-Naturaliste Ridge, a 600 million-year-old geological formation of granite capped by limestone and sand dunes.

The earliest recorded European account of this area was made in 1622: the presence of “Leeuwin’s Land” recorded in the log of the Dutch East India Company ship The Leeuwin. Like many Dutch ships of the day, The Leeuwin sailed across the Indian Ocean in the roaring forties winds before turning north to Java.

However, it was not until 1801 that Cape Leeuwin, the corner of the Australian continent where the Indian and Southern oceans meet, was actually named by Matthew Flinders.

It was here, in the shadows of the lighthouse at Flinders Bay back in July 1986, which locals took part in one of the biggest and most successful whale rescues ever carried out. Volunteers came from everywhere to labour for two days and nights in freezing cold conditions to save 114 stranded false killer whales measuring between two and five metres long.

Natural marvels

Today, the area which spreads between the capes is home to one of WA’s premier parks – the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park. Covering 19,700 hectares this long, thinly strung out park known to many as The Limestone Coast, is a popular spot for visitors.

The township of Margaret River is ideally situated in the centre of the region, eight kilometres from the coast. It is a truly charming holiday destination, particularly in the summer months, for those trying to escape the uncomfortably hot conditions in Perth and other northern and inland regions.

At the mouth of the Margaret River is Prevelly Park, the location of the annual international Margaret River Surfing Classic and the Mecca for those looking for the perfect wave. Yallingup, Smiths Beach and Cowaramup Bay also provide world-class surfing action while dozens of other clean, white, sandy beaches along the coast are ideal for swimming, picnicking, or just relaxing in the fresh air.

Scuba diving enthusiasts are spoiled for choice in this region. Enjoy the fascinating dive trail that has been established at Hamelin Bay around wrecked ships – some dating back to 1880 – which are still visible on the ocean floor.

Or take a trip to the 114m-long wreck of HMAS Swan, scuttled in December 1997 just 1.3 nautical miles off Point Piquet, near Dunsborough.

Although it has only lain on the bottom for a relatively short time, growth is well established on the wreck and many species of fish have made it their home.

Unfortunately for the fishermen, angling is banned within 200m of the site. Special access holes have been cut into the wreck and dive trails through the ship’s corridors and bridge make for a wonderful diving experience.

The 100-year-old lighthouse at Cape Leeuwin (built 1895) is another popular attraction, as is the Naturaliste Beacon, built in 1903. There is also an informative Maritime Museum at the Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse site and both lighthouses, which are open to the public, offer informative tours and splendid views from the top.

At Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse don’t miss the old solidified water wheel originally built to drive a pump to provide local spring water for the lighthouse keepers. It is said to be the most photographed tourist attraction in WA!

Marine attractions

The warm Leeuwin Current running just offshore means fishing from the beach, off rocks and over reefs in small boats is excellent all year round. Good catches can include skippy, dhufish, snapper, whiting, bronze whaler and gummy sharks, flathead and large squid.

The annual Australian salmon spawning run along the coast from March to May provides some hectic sports fishing action from both the shore and from small boats.

If you’re in the right place at the right time, you might be lucky enough to see the clockwork precision of a professional salmon team in action, hauling in tonnes of the fish in huge nets.

Highly prized in the inland waterways of the area are marron (freshwater crayfish) which makes delicious eating. A licence is needed to catch these delicacies and a limited fishing season applies.

Abalone and cray fishing are also popular in a number of bays along this coastline although licences are needed.

Whale watching along this coastal strip is popular between July and November. Southern right and humpback whales pass close by on their annual migration to and from Antarctica, and southern right whales are often seen lazing about in some of the shallow bays along the coast.

Bush lovers

This entire coastal strip is a bushwalker’s delight, ranging from short, easy tracks to the 140km Cape to Cape Heritage Trail which uses the lighthouses at Cape Leeuwin and Cape Naturaliste as the starting and finishing points.

Most other tracks set out from car parks and head off along clifftops and beaches, around headlands and through heath land, rocky limestone and granite outcrops. Don’t miss the specially-built whale watching platform below the lighthouse at Cape Naturaliste.

Around the headland is the area dubbed “the other side of the moon” – it won’t take you long to work out why. Walking trail maps and brochures are available from CALM offices or the Margaret River Tourist Centre (100 Bussell Highway, Margaret River).

Covering 3200 hectares, the Boranup Forest area is 20km south of Margaret River within the national park, and is a sheer delight.

This is tall timber karri forest country where the pale-barked karri tower above gravel roads and walking trails that wind through the forest. There are several forest campsites and picnic areas within the park which bring you as close to nature as you can possibly get.

The camping areas here, in fitting with their natural forest surrounds, are quite basic with wood barbecues (wood supplied), tables and pit toilet facilities, but there is no water provided, so make sure you bring your own supply.

These are ideal places to enjoy the animal and bird life of the forest, and at night by torchlight there are many nocturnal critters to be found, including cheeky brushtail possums that are always looking for campsite handouts.

Extensively logged around the turn of the century, the Boranup Forest is a wonderful example of a karri regrowth forest less than 100 years old.

There are more than 200 different bird species near Margaret River. Eagles Heritage, Australia’s largest raptor centre, has a wide variety of eagles, hawks, kites and owls, many of which are released back into the wild after recovering from injury. Guided tours and hand feeding demonstrations are available.

Contos Campground area, via Caves Road just north of the Boranup Forest, offers secluded campsites for families and larger groups, with wood-supplied barbecues, toilets and drinking water.

There’s no power, but plenty of space for self-sufficient motorhomes and caravans.

Limestone cowboy

Margaret River has around 30 caravan parks in the area from Busselton to Augusta as well as a wide variety of units, chalets, B&Bs, hotels, motels and farm stays. The Margaret River township is 280km south of Perth, an easy 3.5-hour drive on good sealed roads.

Underground and out of sight, this coastline has an extensive and quite extraordinary limestone system that houses more than 350 different caves. The caves range from narrow tunnels to enormous caverns measuring more than 14km long.

Four of the main caves – Ngilgi (Yallingup), Mammoth, Jewel and Lake caves – are open to the public with regular guided tours.

These beautiful underground systems include some world-class shawls, suspended limestone platforms, columns and the bizarre helectites which twist, bend and curl in all directions defying the forces of gravity.

There are also several self-guided adventure caves (bring a torch) which are a lot of fun to explore, and, for experienced speleologists, local arrangements can be made with rangers to venture into many other totally undeveloped cave systems.

Ancient fossils have been found in several of the caves including long-extinct marsupial lions, Tasmanian tigers, sharks, koalas and a gigantic wombat-like creature the size of a horse dated from 37,000 years ago. The cave systems here have proved to be among the oldest and most valuable archaeological sites in Australia.

Wining and dining

Apart from its natural beauties, the Margaret River region is also becoming increasingly popular for its man-made attractions. The area’s wineries are unquestionably a major drawcard.

While not large by Australian volume standards, the wines produced by the more than 50 wineries in this region are first class.

Most are open to the public for tastings and cellar door sales, and many have dining and Devonshire tea facilities set in rustic vineyard settings.

It’s a great way to spend an hour or two, especially for the designated motorhome driver within your group. And if you’re interested in bush tucker, contact Helen Lee O’Brien through the Margaret River Tourist Bureau for a very memorable Bush Tucker and Winery Tour, which she conducts regularly.

Helen also offers a great canoeing/caving/bush tucker tour near the mouth of Margaret River.

If, however, you’re into cheeses or yoghurts, there are a couple of great cheese factories where you can observe it being produced, as well as sample the wide range of both regular and specialty yoghurts and cheeses, including camembert, brie, vintage cheddar and fetta cheeses, all made onsite.

Margaret River is also a rich rural and dairy farm country, and there is a range of animal and wildlife parks in the region to keep you and the kids occupied for several days.

In fact, for both drinking and eating, the Margaret River area caters for all tastes with a wide range of restaurants, cafes, Devonshire teas and boutique eateries. There is also a local chocolate factory where visitors can freely sample some of the mouth-watering produce.

Elsewhere, craft shops, galleries and studios dot the landscape providing anything from gumnut ornaments to jewellery, pottery, dried flowers, glass blowing and craftsmen making solid jarrah tables, chairs and lamp stands.

Cottage industries and boutique specialist art and crafts have become extremely fashionable.

Getting around

Roads to all of the region’s main attractions are either sealed or good gravel. In addition there are several 4WD tracks around the capes and coastal strip leading to good fishing or surfing spots.

So diverse are the area’s attractions, however, that few places ever seem crowded. There is one main exception – the Dunsborough Bakery has a worldwide reputation, and unless you have strong discipline and self-control a visit here can easily become a daily necessity.

This is definitely a region for all seasons, whether it’s an autumn stroll in a picturesque valley veiled in mist, a cosy winter night chatting around a roaring log fire, the wildflowers and a picnic in spring, or enjoying the beach and a swim in a quiet bay in summer.