Travel: South-Eastern South Australia

By Gaye Drady

The triangle formed by the towns of Naracoorte, Mount Gambier and Kingston is a compact and interesting area to explore, so visitors should allow time to see it in a relaxed fashion.

Naracoorte Caves, a World Heritage-listed National Park, lies 11km south-east of Naracoorte. Within it, Alexandra Cave contains a series of chambers featuring many beautiful stalactites and stalagmites, along with delicate straws and a stunning reflection pool. There are 24 steps leading down into the cave and 37 steps climbing out.

We nearly bypassed the Fossil Cave, thinking that a pile of old bones wasn't much to look at - how very wrong we were! Participants are led through more aesthetically pleasing chambers before reaching the fossil deposits. Our enthusiastic national parks tour guide was keen to share her knowledge of Australia's lost megafauna. An intriguing tale of mystery and mishap unfolded as we shared marvellous finds deep underground. It is indeed a privilege to view such a unique and special slice of our history, which is being painstakingly unearthed and preserved. Again, there are some steps to negotiate.

The multi million dollar, world-class Wonambi Fossil Centre brings Australia's extinct megafauna to life with a dynamic display of 18 lifelike robotic animals, some dating back to 250,000 years ago. A picnic area and cafe are on site and the nearby national park camping area offers grassed clearings, powered sites and amenities. The camp area doesn't offer much shade, but there is a nice rural view.

Nearby Bool Lagoon provides an important breeding and feeding ground for local and migratory birds, but can be seasonally dry. Adjoining Hacks Lagoon is always teeming with birdlife, with boardwalks and hides encouraging close-up viewing. Camping is allowed at the lagoons, with grassy and waterside unpowered sites, some shade, toilets and lots of wide open spaces. And of course the birdwatching opportunities at dawn and dusk are excellent.

At Bourne's Bird Museum you can see an amazing collection of artificially preserved bird species just 10km west of Bool Lagoon. Parking is available for caravans and access is convenient for those with limited mobility.

Naracoorte offers all visitor facilities and Naracoorte Holiday Park is a great place to stay. Set on 10 acres of peaceful natural parkland, Naracoorte Holiday Park has cabins, green shaded lawns, immaculate amenities and powered sites.

The swimming lake adjoining Naracoorte Holiday Park is a fabulous place to swim, picnic or relax during the warmer months, while the nature trail is an easy bushwalk that can be enjoyed all year round. Birdlife is prolific at Naracoorte Holiday Park and during my November visit I observed musk and purple crowned lorikeets, gold finches, superb blue fairy wrens, New Holland honeyeaters, eastern rosellas, little corellas, red-rumped parrots and red wattle birds.

Penola, 52km south of Naracoorte, is a wine producing area and has a museum dedicated to the life of Blessed Mary MacKillop. Gardens, parks and neatly tended vineyards make Penola a scenic stop.

Fifty three kilometres south of Penola is Mount Gambier, home to the famous Blue Lake that mysteriously turns a vibrant blue during the summer months. Valley Lake is a lovely day-use area in Mount Gambier, with extensive grounds, picnic facilities, boardwalks and wildlife. Umpherston Sinkhole has a beautifully landscaped garden and friendly possums that venture out at night.

Several caravan parks cater for Mount Gambier's visitors and comprehensive information is available from Lady Nelson Visitors' Centre.

Another 30km will take you to Port MacDonnell on the coast, which has an incredibly scenic coastline with walks and drives following the cliff line.

Southend is a lobster fishing village north-west along the coast on the outskirts of Canunda National Park, with the clearest aquamarine bay I have ever seen. A walk along the jetty to view the lobster catches unload, a swim in the bay, a walk along the white sandy beach, or a drive into the national park are great ways to enjoy this picturesque little spot. A small caravan park is provided as well as basic national park camping.

And just when I couldn't imagine the coastline getting any prettier, along came Beachport: this quaint little town is a scenic gem for fishing, swimming, walking and picnicking, plus there are two lovely caravan parks from which to choose.

Another 50km along the coast is Robe. Larger and more touristy than Port MacDonnell, Southend or Beachport, Robe has art and craft galleries, cafes and a variety of shops, along with more lovely beaches and Little Dip Conversation Park (4WD only).

We stayed at Robe Long Beach Tourist Park, which is across the road from Long Beach and has drive-through powered sites, excellent facilities and well-maintained level grounds in a convenient position to enjoy walks on the beach - overall it is a lovely park.

Kingston highlights the region's successful lobster fishing industry with 17m-high, four tonne 'Larry' the Big Lobster there to welcome visitors. Of course, more water activities are on offer at Kingston. And don't forget Millicent on the highway inland from Southend - it has a fascinating museum, lake boardwalks, swimming and pastoral scenery.