Travel: Robe, SA

By Pam and Gordon May

Travelling south on South Australia’s Limestone Coast, the sight of Kingston’s 17m ‘Big Lobster’ signalled we were only 50km from Robe – the heart of Lobster Land.

Our previous visit coincided with scattered showers, and this time was no exception. Information centre staff gently reminded us that this ‘liquid sunshine’ makes the area hugely productive. Proving the point, they displayed luscious grapes and bottles of the best from local vineyards.

Clutching a town map, we did a reconnoitre to regain our bearings. First stop was Lake Butler Boat Harbour, to watch the fleet unload lobsters that tipped the scales at nearly 4kg. That’s a lot of mornay!

Overlooking the harbour is stately Karatta House, built in 1858 and later used by Governor Sir James Ferguson as a summer residence. Robe has several such historic homes; some have been restored, while others await National Trust funding.

Back in town we visited Robe’s 140-year-old Customs House building and learned of its various transformations from Customs House to Council Chambers to Medical Centre. It is now a museum, displaying vintage photographs, historical data and Chinese artefacts.

Chinese immigration figured prominently in Limestone Coast history. The Coorong, for instance, showcases a 19th century well, dug by Chinese immigrants. From 1857 Robe became a port for Chinese miners bound for Victorian goldfields.

To avoid Victoria’s $20 poll tax, 17,000 Chinese walked 300km from Robe to central Victoria. A cairn near Royal Circus (a former turnaround for bullock drays) commemorates the miners’ epic treks. After discharging their human cargoes, the immigrant ships took on horses (for the Indian Army), wool, tallow and hides.

Farming boomed after 1862 when channels were dug to drain swamplands. This work took a century to complete. The greatest individual effort was at Woakwine Cutting, 45km south of Robe. Farmer Murray McCourt used a bladed D7 tractor, a scraper and ripper to carve an 8km drainage channel from his property.

The three-year project included a cutting through Woakwine Range and removal of 276,000 cubic metres of soil. His machinery and awesome construction logistics are now displayed on site.

Exhausted by the idea of such hard work, we returned to Robe for a delicious lobster lunch at the Caledonian Inn. This charming hotel was built in 1859 by Scotsman Peter McQueen, and has a romantic chapter in its history.

Poet Adam Lindsay Gordon stayed there to recuperate from a horse riding accident and was nursed by McQueen’s niece, Maggie Park. The poet and the publican’s niece fell in love and later were married.

After lunch a break from the liquid sunshine allowed us to walk between native shrubs from the town jetty to Cape Dombey and Factory Bay. Cape Dombey’s striped Obelisk was built in 1855 to assist ships in Guichen Bay – named in 1802 by French explorer Nicholas Baudin. Offshore, Doorway Rock is one of many weather-sculpted formations along this coast.

Factory Bay commemorates an ‘entrepreneurial’ yesteryear cannery: black swans were canned as Robe Geese and parrots were sold as Robe Snipe; only canned rabbits were true to label.

Overnight the clouds cleared and we used the crisp morning to visit Little Dip Conservation Park. The park is 13km south of Robe and certainly a must-visit for nature lovers. We enjoyed seeing Cape Barren geese in nearby pastures, but were stunned by the range of waterbirds around Little Dip’s lakes and lagoons.

While we snapped photos of an echidna, a group of campers spotted a wombat. A happy viewing swap followed – ‘their’ wombat for ‘our’ echidna. We considered staying overnight, but more rain was looming. Fortunately it cleared for Happy Hour back at the caravan park.

Some of our fellow travellers recommended a day trip to Naracoorte via the vineyards, which sounded wonderful, so we allowed an extra day.

Fossils, limestone pillars and delicate ‘straws’ made World Heritage-listed Naracoorte Caves too enthralling to rush. One day could not have done justice to the caves, let alone to the tempting vineyards at Penola and Coonawarra en route and Mt Benson’s equally alluring wineries upon our return leg!

Returning to Robe is already on our agenda. Weather-wise, we are counting on the ‘third time lucky’ theory – then we will be able to swim at sheltered Town Beach, go boating on Ski Lake, or fish for mulloway from the jetty.

Meanwhile, we’ve thoroughly enjoyed two holidays at Robe… liquid sunshine notwithstanding!

Robe Fast Facts
Getting there: Robe is 336km south of Adelaide on Alternate Route 1.

Accommodation:
Robe Long Beach Holiday Park (four-star): The Esplanade; (08) 8768 2237 or 1800 106 106.
Sea-Vu Caravan Park (four-star): 1 Squires Drive; (08) 8768 2273.
Lakeside Tourist Park: 24 Main Road; (08) 8768 2193, fax (08) 8768 2722.
Further information

Robe Visitor Information Centre:
(08) 8768 2465, fax (08) 8768 2863.