Travel: Nullarbor-Streaky Bay, SA

By Tony and Denyse Allsop

Denyse and I had a great time in Esperance but it was time to move on, across the Nullarbor from WA into SA and then on to Streaky Bay. It pays to have the wind behind you on this trip, as the Nullarbor is very exposed, and the winds can be strong - we set off once we saw a break in the easterly winds.

The drive to Norseman was without incident and we stopped there for a break after the 207km trip. We were told the Shell service station had the cheapest fuel, so after filling up and obtaining a list of other fuel stops en route we continued our journey.

Other travellers had mentioned sky-high fuel prices along the Nullarbor, so we decided to stop at most servos to average out these costs, and also to check prices. On leaving Norseman the wind changed, about 15 knots into a head wind - not bad, and it could have been a lot worse. Along this stretch we saw plenty of emus and even two wedgetail eagles.

Our first overnight stop was at Baxter, 514km from Esperance, after quite a long day's travel. Baxter is a large, free offroad camping area which we shared with six other RVers. Denyse cooked a stew over a campfire in our camp oven and the delightful smell brought several visitors to our site over Happy Hour.

Next morning we slept in, missing most of the others' early departures, and then travelled through Caiguna, Cocklebiddy, Madura and Mundrabilla. Up to now we had paid petrol costs from 138.8 cents per litre to 143.9 (147.9 for premium), but at Mundrabilla it was only 119.9 for premium! Other travellers were filling up their containers here, and as only one pump was working, of course we joined the queue.

It was another 62km to Eucla, where we stopped on our first crossing in 1974 when the road was further inland and gravel. Back then the old telegraph station was above the sand, and we walked through it. Now it is a different story as relentless sand dunes take over, covering everything in their path. Only 13 kilometres further on is the official border between WA and SA, Border Village, where there is a modern roadhouse and quarantine checkpoint for those travelling from east to west.

The Bunda Cliffs begin here, with many top viewing spots. You may free-camp at any of these and we chose the 38km clifftop area. The views from these lookouts are magnificent, but don't get too close as there are overhangs. Denyse and I were joined by two other caravans for the night and it was quite an experience to pull our chairs up to the edge of the cliffs, enjoying happy hour while searching for whales and dolphins far below.

So far the wind had been into us, but not strong. Next morning a high pressure system had come in, with a stronger wind on the nose. We continued on, making the quarantine checkpoint at Ceduna at about 2pm. After travelling 450km we felt like a rest and a walk, and stopped at Shelly Beach Caravan Park overnight, enjoying a long stroll along the shore - this was lovely, with the exception of a bad bush fly encounter that continued on to Streaky Bay.

Streaky Bay
While the Nullarbor section is officially a distance of 500km between Eucla and Ceduna, there are no towns between Norseman and Ceduna, some 1211km, so be prepared for a lack of civilisation apart from several roadhouses.

The Foreshore Tourist Park at Streaky Bay fronts a pretty, smooth, water-safe swimming beach. On our previous trips there, crayfishing was a major industry. These days it's oysters, and an abalone farm has also commenced production. Fishing and granite mining also play a big part in the area's economy. Large, fresh  oysters are $6 per dozen, and we certainly had our share of them.

There are also two supermarkets, a hotel, sports club behind the caravan park that offers meals, a medical clinic, mechanical repairs and tyres, a golf club and the usual amenities found in a town of 3000 people.

It pays to spend some time in Streaky Bay, as there are plenty of short trips to be taken. Try Murphy's Haystacks, the pink granite outcrops that are a short drive out of town, and purported to be over 1500 million years old.

If scenery is your thing, do the Westall Way tourist drive, which takes in a series of beautiful beaches - most have surf and are very picturesque. I took the opportunity to have my first swim since leaving Coral Bay, as the weather had turned warmer. All the beaches on the Westall Way drive feature shells, so it may be worth looking for something a bit different.

The back beach, about 8km from the caravan park, is also well worth a visit. This is a long, quiet beach with good surf and fishing - we walked for miles and saw no-one else. Most of these roads are dirt, but in good condition, and quite suitable for a 2WD car. In a half-day drive, we covered Murphy's Haystacks and Point Labatt Conservation Park, dropping by more scenic beaches, plus we even got a look at a seal colony.

From Streaky Bay you may continue south to Point Lincoln or go straight across to Poochera, joining the main highway to Port Augusta. If crossing the Nullarbor from either direction, a detour into Streaky Bay is the perfect reward.

Nullarbor-Streaky Bay fast facts
Ceduna Shelly Beach Caravan Park (3.5 star-rating, FPA member), Decres Bay Road, Ceduna, SA, (08) 8625 2012, fax (08) 8625 2012.

Streaky Bay Foreshore Tourist Park (3 star rating, FPA member), 82 Wells Street, Streaky Bay, SA, 5680, (08) 8626 1666, fax (08) 8626 1788.