Travel: Noosa Heads, Qld

By Cathy Anderson

It was my understanding that bush turkeys lived in the bush. In Noosa Heads on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast, it appears they prefer the beach.

As I strolled the headland at dusk past the fishermen with their wriggling buckets of glory and squealing, splashing children, I caught sight of an unusual parade.

Walking in unison almost at the water’s edge, six bush turkeys did an about-face after several paces and covered their tracks. As I watched curiously, my fellow beachgoers paid no attention. The daily parade was obviously a ritual event, with the turkeys simply mimicking their human counterparts strutting their stuff in a town that screams “chic”.

High rolling

Noosa Heads is a busy pocket of the Sunshine Coast which prides itself on its national parks, inviting beaches and European-esque feel. A strange combination of the best nature can offer and man-made holiday luxuries, it attracts more than 1.5 million visitors a year.

The main drag of Hastings Street squeezes numerous galleries, al fresco restaurants with welcoming firesticks and French-sounding names, jewellers and upmarket fashion boutiques between the inevitable ice-creameries (including gelato bars), jeanswear outlets and souvenir shops. Although palm trees provide shade from the beating sun, there’s always a welcome cafe chair in walking distance, positioned street-side so you can crowd-watch in true Parisian style.

An eclectic mix of visitors takes advantage of all-day breakfasts, lattés and fresh juices. Backpackers from the nearby beachside lodge merge with 4WD-loving retirees and affluent families living it up at the Sebel, Sheraton or nearby rented apartments.

Motorhomers looking for an excuse to leave the home-cooking aside for one night need only wander Hastings Street and peruse the menus on display; there’s no shortage of choice and most will tempt you with suited pianists and wafting classical music. Try Café Le Monde for a tasty BBQ reef fish or Blue Ginger for a touch of Asian cuisine.

Water, water everywhere

Hastings Street is just a jump away from the patrolled main beach where the aforementioned turkey parade ensued.

Main Beach is protected from the southerly winds, and so is favoured by those who prefer a more relaxed, non-sand-in-the-eye bathing experience.

Sunshine Beach is a short drive from Noosa Heads proper and is popular with surfers due to its exposure to the Pacific Ocean. This beach is patrolled, and more affordable eateries are nearby on Sunshine Beach Road at Noosa Junction.

Noosa’s attractions also extend inland, with the Noosa River offering both a relaxing setting for a picnic, or the opportunity to don a skipper’s cap and get out on the water. Several boat hire operators are located on the river at Gympie Terrace, next to a plethora of enticing restaurants.

You can also hire canoes from Elanda Point Canoe Company, 1800 226 637, or embark on a two-day organised tour through the Noosa Everglades with Aussie Sea Kayak Company, (07) 5477 5335.

At the mouth of the Noosa River is an area called the Frying Pan, well known as a reliable fishing spot. The Munna Point Bridge is the hiding place for mangrove jack, trevally and jewfish.

Shanks’ pony

If you like to explore on foot, you’re in luck. The main attraction of Noosa Heads is Noosa National Park, which boasts south-east Queensland’s only stretch of undisturbed, rocky coastline.

Covering 2280 hectares, the park stretches south to Coolum, and offers visitors a variety of walks, spots of tropical rainforest, a variety of wildlife and even the opportunity to go naked!

The most popular walk is the Coastal Track, which covers 5.4km return, and takes around 1.5–2.5 hours at an easy walking pace. With sturdy hand rails and a flat tarred pathway, this walk begins at the national park’s car parking area, with Tea Tree Bay the first stop.

Sheltered, with hard-packed sand and surrounding rocks to poke around for crabs and other marine life, the bay is an ideal place for a swim or picnic, and has toilets available.

Continue south-east past the large spiky pandanus trees and eucalypts and take a detour to sweeping Alexandria Bay after passing the picturesque Granite Bay. Alexandria Bay is more exposed to the elements and is popular with surfers, who will no doubt jog past you on the trail, boards under arm. It’s also a well-known nudist retreat, so if you are not keen to know your fellow bathers intimately it might be best to head south to see the rocky formations of Hells Gate and Boiling Pot instead.

If rainforest is more your scene, consider the gentle 1km Palm Grove Circuit, which begins behind the park’s information centre. The circular 7km Tanglewood Track begins from the picnic area and continues through the forest to Hells Gate and back along the coastal path. On the way, look out for koalas, bush turkeys and goannas.

The nearby suburb of Tewantin also has a heritage walk that starts at Noosa Harbour Marine Village, and the upgraded Noosa River foreshore is ideal for a casual stroll – perhaps with one of those delicious gelatis in hand.

Activities galore

Possibly the best thing about Noosa Heads is its endless variety of activities. Those interested in day tours will be overwhelmed by the brochures lining the walls at the tour centre on Hastings Street, including fishing trips, camel safaris and escorted visits to the nearby Eumundi markets (Saturdays and Wednesdays only).

Trips to the hinterlands and the Glass House Mountains are available, as are popular day or overnight trips to Fraser Island, one of Australia’s most prized environmental destinations.

For those who need a little ‘action adventure’, you can learn to surf, get your thrills on a high-speed powerboat ride or try your sea legs on a windsurfer. Hire a bike and cycle the surrounding townships, jump on a horse or sign up to be a glider pilot.

There are also several festivals that take over the township during the year, including the Noosa Long Weekend (June/July), Festival of Tennis (July), Noosa Half-Marathon (July) and Noosa Jazz Festival (September).

If you prefer a quieter pace, the area offers several art galleries with changing exhibitions of local artists.

Try Beachside Art Gallery (first floor, 9 Hastings Street), Adrian Slinger Galleries (33 Hastings Street) or Lighthouse Gallery (Noosa Harbour Marina).

The Ikatan Spa, (07) 5471 1199, may also entice those looking for a little pampering, with a Balinese massage.

An absolute must for those willing to venture a little further out is the Majestic Theatre in Pomona, a picturesque country town around a half-hour drive west of Noosa.

Where to stay

While the surrounding area of Noosaville has become a playground for Queensland’s rich and famous – and those with an eye for the property boom – there are lots of parks within easy driving distance of Noosa Heads.

The council-run Munna Point Caravan Park on Russell Street, (07) 5449 7050, is small and often booked out due to its prime location on the Noosa River and its proximity to the main beach, but it’s all about location.

Most RVers prefer to stay outside the hustle and bustle and simply drive to the beach or Hastings Street for day trips or evening walks and meals.

One highly recommended park is the Noosa Tewantin Caravan Park on Moorindil Street, Tewantin, (07) 5449 8060, about a 10-minute drive from the main beach. The park, run by Ralph and Eileen Amitrano, has 40 powered/unpowered sites for RVs, a mini-mart, pool, well-maintained amenities and a games room complete with a billiard table. There are also onsite vans and tent sites, but pets are not allowed.

Noosa’s atmosphere is both relaxed and ‘beachy’, with a touch of sophistication. A great place to explore, or simply watch the world walk by.

Noosa Heads facts

Getting there

Noosa Heads is a two-hour hop north from Brisbane via the Bruce Highway and the Sunshine Motorway, or one hour south of Gympie via Cooroy and Tewantin.

When to go

Any period other than school holidays is a good time to avoid the crowds. Low season is from after the Easter holidays until September, and unless you have a passion for jazz, tennis or Ironmen or women, it would be best to avoid Noosa’s festival times.

More information

Noosa Tour Centre: 50 Hastings Street, (07) 5447 3845.

Noosa Information Centre: 29 Sunshine Beach Road, (07) 5447 8647.