Travel: Limestone Coast, SA

By Kevin Hone

Situated in the south-east corner of SA, Beachport is a part of the region marketed by tourism bureaus as the Limestone Coast.

Limestone, ancient rock formed from compacted marine sediment, can be found in every direction along this narrow coastal strip, stretching from Nelson on the Victorian border up to Tailem Bend, SA.

Beachport’s combination of relaxed atmosphere and untouched coastal splendour makes it ideal for a holiday destination. The town’s jetty measures 772m and, as the second-longest in South Australia, it’s a popular fishing spot for local and visiting anglers.

A nearby boat ramp offers easy access to Rivoli Bay.

If you’re curious about the past, Beachport’s museum and historical buildings provide hours of enjoyment. Sporting clubs available include tennis, bowls and an excellent golf course.

An intriguing area a few kilometres north in the Beachport Conservation Park is Woolly’s Lake. This is an ideal spot for bird watching, and there is a marked walking track through the scrubland around the lake – this walk is well worth the effort involved.

Unique to Beachport, the ‘Pool of Siloam’ has a salt concentration seven times greater than the sea, which creates unusual buoyancy. There are toilets and change rooms for anyone wanting a dip in the pool, as well as picnic tables nearby.

While in Beachport we stayed with our van, ‘Myrtle’, at the Southern Ocean Tourist Park. This is a huge caravan park with 255 grassy, powered sites and plenty of shade, also a modern, clean amenities block. Children are catered for with an excellent playground and a kiosk is available on site. Adding to the park’s appeal is its proximity to the town centre and beach, which are within walking distance.

Planning ahead
Whatever your reason for visiting this region you cannot help but be captivated by the natural beauty of this wild, rugged coastline; it is begging to be photographed and this was the main motivation for my trip. Creating striking land and seascape images involves some planning, and this takes the element of ‘chance’ out of being in the right place at the right time.

To do any scene justice, you must plan to be at your chosen location when the light is best for photography. For landscapes/seascapes, this is the first one and a half hours after dawn and approximately the last two hours of the day right up to and including sunset.

The last hour or so before sunset is possibly the most photogenic time of the day, as the sun bathes the land in a beautiful, golden glow which brings any scene to life.

Irrespective of the type of camera involved – still or video – the most important element in scenery is the quality of light.

For sightseeing and photography Bowman scenic drive is an ideal starting point. There are beautiful sites all along this short drive; many were only a brief walk from our camping area.

Enjoy the quiet
We left Beachport, travelling in a south-easterly direction along the coast to Nelson: officially a Victorian town, this small village remains an honorary member of the Limestone Coast.
Smaller and even more relaxed than Beachport, for the Grey Nomads wanting to spend a few quiet days enjoying the beauty of the area, this is an ideal spot.

Situated on the mouth of the Glenelg River, Nelson consists of a general store and pub. If you plan to stay, stock up in Mt Gambier, 30km west, or Portland 70km to the east, depending on which direction you travel.

We towed Myrtle to the River-Vu Caravan Park in town, overlooking the Glenelg River. It is a small park with powered sites and cabins with ensuites. A new amenities block is available, but water and sullage are not connected.

At only $13 per night it suited our needs perfectly!

A short drive, followed by a stroll along a well defined walking track led us to Miller’s Blow, where the great expanse of the Southern Ocean unfolded before our eyes.

At Miller’s you can experience the deafening sound of nature as waves pound the shore. Despite this awesome sight, there was little to photograph, so I headed down the track to Estuary Beach, a few kilometres west. This is a much better photographic location and I made a note to return when the light was more favourable.

The beach is definitely better than at sunrise because you’re on the eastern side of the estuary, a good fact to know, rather than rising at an unholy hour for no good reason.

Commencing at the estuary car park there is also the 3km Livingstone Nature Walk, which takes in sweeping views of the Glenelg River Estuary, including a boardwalk over the unique salt marsh area.

Many excellent nature close-ups can be taken while looking down directly from this boardwalk. Bear in mind that cloudy, overcast days often provide the best light for close-ups and macro photography – the soft light results in more intense, saturated colours.

Contrary to what the uninitiated may think, intense sunlight reduces colour saturation by increasing glare and contrast.

The track takes you to Livingstone Island for some fine bird-watching opportunities. A well constructed bird hide enables you to spend considerable time here in reasonable comfort.

We took the opportunity to experience the Glenelg River Cruise which takes you on a relaxed 3.5-hour journey through the Lower Glenelg National Park to Princess Margaret Rose Caves. If you have the time and opportunity, this is not to be missed. The cruise departs from Nelson every day except Monday and Friday.

The spectacular limestone cliffs, birdlife and the unusual boatsheds built on stilts over the river are all an amazing sight to behold.

In addition to the Princess Margaret Rose Caves Tour (which can also be reached via car along the Mt Gambier Road), you can fill in the time at the excellent information centre/coffee shop or go on a nature walk through the park.

The picturesque Glenelg River caters for a variety of boat-based activities for visitors including fishing, water skiing, canoeing, as well as pleasure cruising.

The river offers excellent flat water canoeing over 75km from Dartmoor to Nelson – allow about four days to complete the journey.

Nelson is also the halfway point to the internationally-acclaimed ‘Great South West Walk’. Starting at Portland, the 250km route passes through forest and heathlands along the river to Nelson and returns to Portland via the windswept coastline.

You can access parts of this walk each day and return to the comfort of your van at night. A brochure covering the entire walk and associated short walks is available from the Nelson Visitors Centre.

With the rising cost of fuel, it makes sense to see everything a particular area has to offer. For Grey Nomads with time to spare, this region will suit those with a yen for crowd-free solitude and discovery.

Beachport/Nelson Fast Facts
Accommodation:
Beachport Southern Ocean Caravan Park: (08) 8735 8153
Beachport Caravan Park: (08) 8735 8128
Nelson River Vu Caravan Park: (08) 8738 4123
Kywong Caravan Park: (08) 8738 4174

Beachport Tourism: (08) 8735 8029
Nelson Tourism: (08) 8738 4051
Princess Margaret Rose Caves: (08) 8738 4171
Glenelg River Cruises: (08) 8738 4191