Travel: Katherine NT to Kununurra WA

After an early start from Katherine, it was a short run to the Victoria River where we camped behind the service station. We had always wanted to climb one of the magnificent escarpments and there were two good walks a couple of kilometres west of here. The fishing was also meant to be good. I can recommend the walks, but not the fishing.

Our next camp was at Big Horse Creek, in Gregory National Park. There is plenty of room for caravans here: toilets, water, barbecues but no showers. A good launching ramp for boats is beside the camping area and the rangers told us that many barra had been pulled out of the river. Back towards Timber Creek about 6km there is an easy drive to the top of an escarpment with several viewing points -- it's well worth doing.

Keep River National Park is also worth a visit (and a good place to finish up the rest of your fruit and vegetables before the border), with a camping area 15km in, suitable for caravans.

However, we went across the NT/WA border and on to Lake Argyle, where we stayed for two nights at the old, but convenient, caravan park. Below the spillway is a great fishing area, with mainly black bream, but some barra. You share the fishing with several fresh water crocs. It was here that Denyse caught two large black bream - fish in the freezer again! The lake is a must-see, and we found it better to stay here than visit from Kununurra, our next stop.

Our choice was a waterfront site at Kona Lakeside Tourist Park where owners Grant and Sarah Lodge have set aside a fish feeding area. The kids will love this, as fish jostle to be fed, along with large turtles and two resident (but wild) freshwater crocs.

Ivanhoe Crossing is a well known fishing spot, so Denyse and I headed out there next morning. We caught several barra, all about 40cm long, but undersized. It hurt to throw them back. The third morning I struck gold: a great 66cm barra, of legal size and weighing over 4kg. I was on top of the world: a legal saltwater barra, my first, and it put up a good fight. I had caught one in Kakadu, but fresh water barra do not taste as good.

That afternoon three local guys were fishing from the crossing, standing in nearly metre-deep water, when one of them was gashed badly on the leg by an unseen croc. They told us they knew there was a 3m croc in the pandanus trees, but had not considered him a risk!

After doing the usual touristy things in Kununurra, it was a short drive to Parrys Creek Farm, a little known tourist park we had heard of earlier. The park is situated about 15km from Wyndham, along 6km of good dirt road.

It was a real surprise: lying alongside a long lagoon in 120 acres of pristine land, the resort consists of a camping area, powered sites and off-ground cabins. A clean, rustic amenity block and swimming pool completes the park. A licensed restaurant specialises in local barramundi and steak.

Parrys Creek Farm lies in the middle of Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve, a Ramsar wetland of international significance. The bird-hide and old telegraph station should be visited, along with all the other attractions of the Wyndham area.

Second only to the Bastion lookout is Jane's barra burgers. Her shop is opposite the museum. If you enjoy peace and quiet, Parrys Creek Farm would be a great base. We spent three days here and could have spent longer. Wyndham still has the ambience of an old frontier town and is worth more than just a day tour from Kununurra.

Even though it was late May, the days were hot in WA's most northern town, and the gauge was around 38°C. A low was about to come in, bringing most unseasonal rain and dropping the temperature to a maximum of 20°C. We felt the cold, and it was time to move on.

Before leaving Wyndham we saw the world's largest live cattle ship come in, load up 9000 head and leave the next day for Indonesia. This ship carries 20,000 head altogether.

While in Kununurra a trip into the Bungle Bungles (Purnululu National Park) had been arranged with the original tour company, East Kimberley Tours, which has over 20 years' experience in this national park. This was to be a highlight of our holiday so far.

We camped at Turkey Creek, having a very quiet night as the roadhouse closes at 9pm. Our 4WD bus turned up at 5.15am for the full day trip, and the rain had stopped. The driver, Ben, was very knowledgeable and gave us a rundown on fauna, flora and aspects of conservation in the area.

After the rain, the road in was pretty bad, and rangers were thinking of closing it, so our decision not to take our own vehicle was a good one. Ben stopped whenever we wanted for photos and morning tea. Time was spent at the rangers' headquarters where we bought souvenirs and more film before moving on to the first walk, Echidna Chasm.

This was most impressive, an easy to moderate 2km walk which our small party of six managed with ease.

At various stages we could touch both sides of the chasm and look up at the cliff tops, towering 100m above us! It was interesting to note termite mounds on top of the cliffs, with their trails leading up.

On our last trip we had flown over the Bungles, but it was awesome actually being in there. The walk was shady, with a climb over boulders near the end.

East Kimberley Tours has a camp set up at Bellburn, so it was off there for lunch - a buffet affair with two hot meats, fried rice and salad - a delicious meal.

Our second walk was into Cathedral Gorge, another easy to moderate walk. Waterholes, rock ledges and the typical domes of the Bungles were passed before suddenly ending in a huge natural amphitheatre, complete with pool in the middle, another awesome sight. Peregrine falcons circled above, their cries easy to pick out and a water monitor sat on the edge while small fish swam in the dark water.

Suddenly the sounds of a didgeridoo were heard. Ben was playing and the effect on our small group in this magic area was immediate. We stayed here for about 30 minutes, just soaking up the atmosphere and listening to the haunting music.

Although the day was overcast, as we emerged from Cathedral Cave the sun came out and gave us a great view of the colours of the mounds.

All too soon it was time for the return trip home to Turkey Creek. During the three-hour return journey Ben stopped at a place he knew for photos of the sunset, and yet another tea and biscuit break.

On the 53km road in, there were about six creek crossings, some with 60cm of water in and steep climbs up the embankment.

Generally the road was corrugated with some slippery mud patches. Sharp rocks were common and would be a killer on tyres and suspension; we heard several stories of breakdowns.

I was pleased to let someone else do the driving, in their vehicle, and not to have the responsibility and worries!

The day ended when we were dropped off at our camp at Turkey Creek around 7pm. It had been a huge day and one of the highlights of our trip so far.

Fast Facts
Kona Lakeside Tourist Park
(four-star rating)
Lakeview Drive, Kununurra, WA 6743
Phone (08) 9168 1031
Powered site: $22 double

Parrys Creek Farm Tourist Park
PO Box 253, Wyndham, WA 6740
Ph/fax (08) 9161 1139
Powered site: $25 double
Unpowered: $20 double

East Kimberley Tours
Contact: Paul Wainwright
PO Box 537, Kununurra, WA 6743
Freecall 1800 682 213
Several tours available. Ours was $175 per person