Travel: Flinders Ranges, SA

By Colin Kerr

With the magnificent Wilpena Pound as its dominant centrepiece, South Australia’s Flinders Ranges imposes a dramatic presence through several hundred kilometres of the State’s central and northern regions.

One of the State’s most popular tourist attractions, the Flinders Ranges is named after explorer Matthew Flinders who sighted them from his ship Investigator while exploring the Spencer Gulf in 1802.

Dreamtime tradition

Recognised as one of Australia’s most impressive ranges because of its spectacular rugged scenery, the range also has many splendid walk and drive trails, peaceful tree-lined creeks and gorges, plenty of secluded get-away-from-it-all camping spots as well as a wide range of attractive flora and abundant animal and birdlife which can be seen everywhere.

The range’s wildlife, in fact, is deeply entrenched in Dreamtime legends from the area’s first Aboriginal residents whose stories tell of Akurra, the giant water snake, slithering down through the ranges to the nearby saline lakes to quench his thirst. As he dragged his body back to the ranges he carved deep sinuous gorges through the hillsides creating springs and waterholes as well as the magnificent Wilpena Pound.

If you look closely, the curvy mountains fit the story nicely, and St Mary Peak (1171m – the highest in the Flinders) somewhat resembles a snake’s head. Carbon testing carried out on ancient Aboriginal meeting place sites in the Flinders reveal ancestors of the local Adnyamathanha, meaning ‘Hills People’, have lived here for at least 15,000 years.

Explorer Edward John Eyre was the first European to walk through the Flinders in 1839 – one of several visits here by Eyre during his extensive outback explorations.

Majesty and grandeur

Stretching more than 400km broadly in a north-south direction from just out of Adelaide (near Crystal Brook) to the State’s mid-north, the Flinders was described by landscape artist Hans Heysen as ‘the bones of nature laid bare’.

Antarctica explorer Sir Douglas Mawson also had a fitting quote that applies to the Flinders: “Mountains never grow old, they simply fade away”. While he, of course, had been talking of mountains quite a few thousand kilometres away, his words also ring true for the rugged Flinders Ranges, which were once much higher than they are seen today.

It seems over millions of years the ravages of time may have also made molehills out of these mountains that once towered up to 6km high. However, the impressive Flinders still stand tall and dominant on the sparse, flat, open countryside that surrounds them.

From the south, Wirrabarra Forest, Telowie Gorge (a spectacular slice through the range), Mount Remarkable National Park, Hidden Gorge with its quartzite walls and the rugged Alligator Gorge are just a taste of the natural attractions of the extensive region that makes up the Flinders.

If you are into bushwalking, the Heysen Trail runs through the entire length of the Southern and Central Flinders Ranges, offering plenty of incredible scenic views and a variety of beautiful mountain range attractions along the way. The Trail is well marked and can be tackled in short easy jaunts or larger more difficult sections.

Another feature of this southern Flinders region is the massive river red, sugar and blue gum trees seen through the region. A magnificent example of this is a huge specimen with a circumference of around 11m, believed to be 900 years old, along the Wilmington Road near Orroroo.

Horrock’s Pass, not far from Wilmington, was named after the explorer John Horrock who came through the pass in 1864; it offers wonderful views of Spencers Gulf from the lookout at the top.

The Flinders are also well known for their spectacular wildflowers which grow quickly and profusely after rain. Spring is an ideal time to see some beautiful colour through the ranges.

Seemingly dominating the surrounding landscape, the Flinders stand as an impressive central backdrop to hundreds of kilometres of the State’s vast regional areas.

Quaint and very historic villages and townships are also a feature of the Flinders character, with places like Crystal Brook, Peterborough, Orroroo, Quorn (with its Pichi Richi Railway), Hawker, Parachilna, Blinman (once the site of a large copper mine) and many others. All of these are delightful spots to call into and to soak up the local history and scenic atmosphere.

Most of these still have a real old-time character and charm to them and are wonderful little places to stop off on your Flinders travels to stay overnight or simply call in for a coffee, a pie or Devonshire tea.

Attention grabber

In the central Flinders the huge and spectacular Wilpena Pound, in the shape of a natural basin ringed by massive saw-toothed cliffs, is both dramatic and mysterious. From the ground this ancient range, measuring about 21km long and 7km wide, stands tall and abrupt over the landscape. Vehicles are not allowed into the Pound so the best way to view it is from the air.

Looking like something from another planet, the aerial view over this spectacular range clearly shows the rim of the Pound as mere stumps of the much larger mountain range that was once perhaps the size of the Himalayas. Standing peaceful and serene and like a large natural fortress, the Pound has only one way in and out and was used by early graziers as a huge sheep pen. Here the flocks roaming on the flat, grassy plains within the Pound could be easily and safely contained. Today there are no sheep but, in the surrounding areas, this region is still a productive sheep grazing and wool producing area.

With its 35-40 km jagged basin-like rim, the geological phenomenon making up Wilpena Pound once had scientists thinking it was the site of a meteorite collision, but this has been proved not to be the case. Some say the name Wilpena comes from the local Aboriginal name for the landscape, meaning ‘a kangaroo skin curled up on the edges’ or ‘place of bent fingers’, while others say it simply means ‘cupped hands’ – from the air any of these descriptions seem to fit quite easily!

Without the opportunity to drive into the Pound, a number of walking trails have been developed. These range from an easy 5km stroll to the Hill family’s original 1902 homestead, to much more extensive treks including a climb trail to the top of the 1170m St Mary’s Peak, the highest point in the Flinders.

The Flinders, in fact, is a bushwalker’s paradise, with many claiming the trails and scenery here are some of the best in the country. Before setting out, call into the Wilpena Pound Visitor Centre and pick up walking trail maps and plenty of other information on the area as well.

Walk it or drive it

In the northern Flinders Ranges the spectacular countryside around Arkaroola and the Gammon Ranges National Park provides a number of rugged 4WD trails to deep gorges, tall hilltop lookouts, restful tree-lined creeks and delightful fresh water springs and waterholes.

In this northern Flinders region, the remote, but well equipped Arkaroola Village run by the well-known Sprigg family, has plenty of facilities and services including a wide range of accommodation options, meals, fuel and repairs. It is also an ideal base from which to explore the dramatic landscape found in the northern section. Guided 4WD tours as well as self-drive options are available with plenty of maps and scenic location information available from the well resourced visitor centre.

At the village, take the time to appreciate some of its little idiosyncrasies, such as the garden made of rocks, the sculptures and plaques and the wonderful collection of homemade sundials – they are a real eye-opener. At night check out Arkaroola’s Observatory – a great opportunity to star gaze through a large 14in telescope and sets of powerful binoculars in the clear unpolluted skies for which the area is renowned.

This area also offers plenty of picturesque walk trails, historic station ruins and, like many areas in the Flinders, there are numerous ancient Aboriginal art sites (both paintings and petroglyphs), some with well marked walking trails and interpretive signs, while others are simply hidden away in remote areas well away from developed tourist trails.

In geological terms, the area where the Flinders Ranges stand today was an inland sea 500 million to 1000 million years ago. The sea slowly filled with marine, glacial and river deposits of sand, mud and rock. During the millions of years that followed massive forces from deep within the earth’s crust raised and buckled this area to form the Flinders Ranges.

As mentioned earlier, the ranges today are going through a long period of erosion. With more resistance to the forces of erosion than other rocks and earth, large areas of quartzite can be seen throughout the areas on hills and mountain tops. Fossilised evidence of the ancient marine and glacial deposits from the region’s past can also be found in the rock faces and water courses through the ranges.

For those interested in arts and crafts or in quaint places to eat out, the Flinders has plenty to offer. The whole region caters for a wide cultural and artistic diversity with country music festivals, food fairs, art, craft and antique shops, country shows and renowned events like the Wilmington Night rodeo and the Laura Folk Fair.

Pubs like the old Prairie Hotel at Parachilna offer plenty of history and character, and are a popular outing for a good meal and a cold beer.

For those photographers and artists who enjoy mixing it with nature, the Flinders’ rough, craggy outlines, plunging gorges, rich regal hues, soft greens and purples, glowing reds and golds and the rich textures and shadows early and late in the day, have a captivating appeal to all who come to enjoy them.

Flinders Ranges facts:

Getting there:

By road, the Southern Flinders can be accessed through Crystal Brook, Port Augusta and Peterborough, or in the north through Quorn and Hawker or Brachina, Parachilna or Blinman.

The best way to tour is by 4WD, but if sticking to the main tourist trails most are suitable for conventional vehicles. Some of the main access roads are sealed, however most roads within the ranges themselves are of a good gravel standard. There are also some excellent 4WD-only tracks through the ranges, especially in the northern, more remote regions.

Organised 4WD tours of the Flinders Ranges are also available, including Skytrek and other great ridge top adventures. Full details are available including maps and private station contacts from local tourist centres.

Wilpena Pound Resort (including accommodation enquiries), (08) 8648 0004, 1800 805 802 or email: administralion@wilpenapound.com.au, web: www.wilpenapound.com.au.

Arkaroola Travel Centre, 1800 676 042, email: res@arkaroola.on.net, web: www.arkaroola.on.net

Coach tours of the Flinders are also available – contact Flinders Ranges and outback SA Tourism, 1800 633 060 for details.

Scenic air flights over the Flinders are available from Arkaroola and Wilpena Pound.

Local Adnyamathanha Aboriginal people take guided interpretive tours to rock art (petroglyphs) and art sites in the Flinders, (08) 8648 3764.

Best time to go:

Spring and autumn are ideal times with generally mild temperatures and cool nights. Usually very hot in summer.

Permits:

Day visitor fees apply in several national parks. Camping fees also apply. Self registration in national parks.

Accommodation, camping and supplies:

There is a wide range of accommodation available in the Flinders region, ranging from camping areas, B&Bs, station stays (which also offer guided tours of their properties) to hotels and motels at a number of the main centres. Details from local tourist centres or Flinders Ranges and Outback SA, 1800 633 060 or (08) 8373 3430. There are also a number of stone huts and old shearers’ quarters set up as basic accommodation for visitors – details and bookings contact National Parks and Wildlife Service.

Gas stoves are advised as there is limited opportunity for wood fires and some fire bans. Fuel and supplies are available at Wilpena Pound and Arkaroola Resorts as well as at many towns and villages scattered through the Flinders area. Arkaroola Travel Centre, 1800 676 042.

National Parks and Wildlife Service (Balcanoona office), (08) 8648 4829, Hawker Office, (08) 8648 4244, Wilpena Pound, (08) 8648 0048.

Maps and guides:

Hema SA and District Maps, Westprint Flinders Ranges Map. Walk trail maps of the Flinders are available from local tourist centres, National Parks and Wildlife Service Offices as well as Wilpena Pound and Arkaroola resorts.

Northern road conditions hotline, 1300 361 033.