Travel: Fitzroy Crossing, WA

By Sascha Stone

Situated in the middle of a long, hot drive between Broome and Kununurra in WA, Fitzroy Crossing is located 2686km north of Perth, 258km from Derby and 110m above sea level.

It is one of those outback settlements which sprang up for a single reason: it was a suitable place to cross the huge Fitzroy River which, during the wet season, was capable of stranding travellers for weeks.

Once a proper bridge was built, the town’s raison d’etre vanished. It is now a small, predominantly Aboriginal settlement, on the banks of the Fitzroy River with the beautiful Geikie Gorge to the north, and the unusual Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge, 63km and 95km respectively from the town, on the alternate Derby-Fitzroy Road.

The Fitzroy River was discovered by European settlers and George Grey in 1873 on board HMS Beagle, and named after the former commander of the ship, Captain Robert Fitzroy RN.

The river rises in the King Leopold and Mueller Ranges, flowing through rugged hills and plains for over 750km before discharging into King Sound, south of Derby.

It has a catchment area of 90,000 sq km, half of which is above Fitzroy Crossing. In the wet season it can rise 13m above the old concrete river crossing, and has an estimated flow of 30,000 cubic metres per second.

It was first explored by Captain John Stokes in 1838, however its upper reaches weren’t extensively mapped until Alexander Forrest journeyed through the area in 1879.

Forrest’s reports on the farming potential of the area resulted in Solomon Emanuel (a grazier and banker from Goulburn, NSW) founding the Gogo Station, 20km downstream from the present day site of Fitzroy Crossing.

Local Aborigines resisted incursions from European pastoralists and the area around Fitzroy Crossing was the subject of some particularly bloody battles.

Like so many of the towns in the Kimberley, Fitzroy Crossing is spread over a large area of land. Without an identifiable town centre, and with quite a distance separating the new highway from the old river crossing, the town is more like a series of loosely connected settlements that a single community.

The Fitzroy Crossing region is full of interesting stories, none perhaps more tragic than the battle over Noonkanbah Station, south-west of the town.

In 1979-80 local Aborigines gained control of the station but were almost immediately faced with a claim for mining rights on the property.

They opposed a request by Amex to search for oil and the government brought police into the area to ensure a safe passage for drilling equipment.

The issue was widely publicised as an example of the government’s refusal to respect Aboriginal lands. Despite all the trouble the controversy caused and the damage it did to the WA government’s reputation, the Amex rigs found no oil in the area.

Fitzroy River Lodge is amidst 50 acres of natural bush with a variety of accommodation options, from caravan and camping facilities to luxury river-view suites.

Located on the banks of the Fitzroy River, the Lodge offers tented safari lodges, motel units with double or family size rooms, self-contained family apartments and 110 powered caravan sites – something for everyone.

In addition to the accommodation options, a large number of recreational facilities are available including a swimming pool, tennis court, barbecue areas, a restaurant and bistro, lounge bar and a new range of tours.

Travellers with an adventurous spirit can enjoy a full day 4WD tour of the Windjana and Tunnel Creek National Parks or a cruise on the Geikie Gorge where they will see an amazing array of wildlife and spectacular scenery.

The Fitzroy River Lodge also offers an overnight tour to the national park, giving visitors a real Australian wilderness experience.

For those interested in history and culture, the walking tour covers the old town site of Fitzroy Crossing and the famous Crossing Inn, renowned for its exhibitions of Aboriginal art.

The local area is worth investigating as it is abundant with native wildlife and the fisherman’s dream: barramundi.

Visitors can enjoy fishing, boating, swimming, bird watching or simply taking a walk along the river.

It is also possible to journey off the beaten track and discover the natural beauty of the Kimberly in a range of new tours provided in cooperation with Fitzroy River Lodge.

The Lodge cooperates with three local Aboriginal organisations – Mimbi Aboriginal Corporation, Bungoorlee Tours and Ngooloodoo Bush Adventures – to extend the range of tours available in Fitzroy Crossing.

People can participate in guided and self-drive tours to the Mimbi Caves, camp overnight in Aboriginal cultural tours conducted by Biridu Community, and enjoy daily tours to Mount Pierrie Station.

The best time to visit this beautiful part of the country is between April and November because during the wet season – December through to March – the Fitzroy River is prone to flooding.

It is worth checking to make sure roads are open and safe before leaving for your destination at these times (you can check road information at the Main Roads Department of WA).

Today, the Fitzroy Crossing is one of the fastest growing towns in the Kimberley, and its natural beauty will take your breath away.

Fitzroy Crossing Fast Facts

Fitzroy Crossing is located 2686km north of Perth situated on the Great Northern Highway between Broome, Derby and Kununurra.

The gateway airport to the region is located in Broome 391km to the West. Charter flights are then available from Broome to Fitzroy Crossing via Northwest Regional Airlines, Broome Aviation or Golden Eagle Airlines.

Fitzroy Crossing is accessible 365 days a year via a sealed road ideal for soft adventure travellers. Alternatively, Greyhound and Macafferty’s coaches also offer a service to the region.

Fitzroy River Lodge offers 48 comfortable and spacious hotel rooms and self-contained family units all serviced daily, plus 30 three-star Tented Safari Lodges. Fitzroy River Lodge provides 110 fully equipped, grassed caravan park bays with modern amenities blocks and laundry as well as extensive camping areas.

Full Day Windjana Gorge/Tunnel Creek Tours, $150 adults, $75 children three to 15 years old, children under three are free, includes billy tea and damper for morning tea, full buffet lunch, cold drinks, tea and coffee.

Fitzroy Crossing/Geikie Gorge Town Tour, $55 adults, $27.50 children three to 15 years, children under three are free.

Fitzroy River Walking Tours, $30 adults, $15 children three to 15 years, no children under three permitted, and includes an informative walk around the Fitzroy River highlighting the area’s unique flora and fauna. Tours run seven days a week from March to November.

For further information on these exciting tours please contact the Fitzroy River Lodge on (08) 9191 5141. For reservations call (08) 9191 5141, fax: (08) 9191 5142, email: fitzroyriverlodge@bigpond.com