Travel Feature: Port Macquarie, NSW

Coastal Charms

Words: Julie Ihle; Pics: Barry Ihle and Hastings Council Tourism

For years Port Macquarie has boasted that it has the best climate in Australia. Then along came La Niña, the wet-weather cell that has been sweeping the east coast. When we visited in late summer, it was bucketing down, with slate-coloured, wild surf pounding the beaches, and thunderous, low-slung cloud.

Needless to say the cafes and pubs were doing a roaring trade, and luckily Port Macquarie now has plenty of all-weather activities to keep everyone amused.

TRANSFORMATIONS
If you haven't visited Port (as the locals call it) for a while, you are in for a nice surprise. Over the past five years or so Port has transformed from a sleepy regional centre to a bustling beach town that has adopted 'lifestyle' as though it invented it.

There are cafes on every corner and a rejuvenated waterfront area, and wineries have sprung up in the hinterland. But it is in no danger of turning into the Gold Coast. Development is strictly low-rise, old-style wooden houses have been renovated and locals have a laid-back pride in their town.

Whether you stop in Port to break up the Pacific Highway journey or whether you spend a week, there's plenty to keep you as occupied or relaxed as you like.

The good news is that despite the swanky new apartments, Port hasn't forgotten its roots. Tourist parks still have dibs on all the best views, including the magnificent Sundowner on the northern edge of the town centre, which surely has one of the best holiday park locations in Australia.

For Port Macquarie newbies, the best place to get your bearings is on what's quaintly known as the Town Green, a riverside parkland adjacent to the Hastings River and at the confluence of the two main streets, Horton and Clarence streets. Take a stroll along the breakwater where nearly every rock has been brightly painted by tourists, turning graffiti into a tourist attraction. At the end of the breakwater, Town Beach is spread out before you. You can walk through the waves or follow the footpath that continues next to the beach.

The footpath spans a few more beaches, and is perfect if you like a bit of coastal and bush scenery with your walks. For a taste of history, walk back to town past the old courtyard and historical museum.

HISTORY, ART AND WINE
As one of Australia's oldest settlements, Port Macquarie displays its history proudly. Dating from 1821, it was one of Australia's first regional convict settlements. Historical gems include St Thomas' Church, the old courthouse and several old homesteads.

But it doesn't just offer colonial history. The Ritz cinema and the Macquarie Hotel are genuine Art Deco buildings, and residents hope that the Glasshouse, a new (and slightly controversial) art gallery, conference centre and theatre due to open in August smack bang in the centre of town, will cement Port's reputation as an arts centre.

More arts and crafts are on display in the hinterland. Nearby hamlets of Wauchope and Comboyne are artist havens, with cute little B&Bs, galleries and several scenic drives that take in art and the mid-north coast's latest obsession, food and wine. Make sure you check The Udder Cow Cafe and try its meat pie simmered in red wine and herbs.

Great natural produce is accompanied by local wines. Cassegrain is the original vineyard, run by a family of French/Australian winemakers. Today it is joined by others, including Bago in Wauchope and Longpont Vineyard in nearby Lake Cathie, which also does a more-ish alcoholic ginger beer.

Be warned, though, that food is not cheap in Port Macquarie's downtown bistros and cafes: expect capital-city prices. The best option is to grab some local battered fish from one of the fish-and-chips shops and mix it with your own salad.

BUSH PLEASURES
Port has other attractions. Sea Acres is a National Parks-run boardwalk that takes visitors deep into an excellent remnant of subtropical coastal rainforest. The walk is wheelchair-friendly and there's a great cafe.

Koala Hospital is an endearing attraction. It has been going for 34 years and looks after injured or sick koalas. Twice daily it holds tours including koala feeding sessions, which are not to be missed and a hit with international tourists.

Billabong Koala Park is also worth a visit. It's more like a mini zoo with Australian native staples like koalas, snakes and wombats as well as cassowaries, albino wallabies and exotic spider monkeys.

Further up the road is Timbertown, a working recreation of a 19th century timber village. It has been part of the Wauchope landscape for 30 years and has a chequered history. Nowadays it's firmly in the hands of new owners and is Wauchope's premier tourist attraction. Popular with all age groups from families to grey nomads, there are classic steam-train rides, bullock shows, wood-turning displays, Cobb & Co coach rides, and canoe trips for the kids. Drop in for a few hours or stay for lunch in the fabulous woolshed and listen to the lunchtime bush band, washed down with Timbertown's very own home-brew port.

WATER FUN
Fishing is easy at Port Macquarie: there's an abundance of fishing spots in the rivers, lakes, beaches and breakwalls. Enjoy a whale-watching or dolphin-spotting cruise or take a turn upriver and check the oyster leases or the fascinating everglades.

Wherever you stay in Port Macquarie there's a beach nearby, and most are patrolled from October to April. Town Beach is at the north-eastern edge of town, and Flynn's Beach, on the eastern edge, is popular with families.

But for a classic surf beach, Lighthouse Beach in the south is Port's showpiece. Overseen by a whitewashed lighthouse, this 6km of curling surf is a haven for surfers, families and fishers. Million-dollar mansions look on.

Try the 7km Headland Walk from Town Beach to Lighthouse Beach, taking in six beaches on the way including Miners Beach, Port Macquarie's unofficial nude beach.

Best climate in Australia? Maybe. I'll keep coming back for the food, attractions and beaches.

FAST FACTS:

WHERE TO STAY