Travel: Darwin, NT

Darwin is something of a surprise if you’ve never been there before. Very much a modern (thank you, Cyclone Tracy) and cosmopolitan city, the NT capital has a harbour larger than Sydney’s and many attractions both old and new – everything from the popular Mindil Beach sunset markets to the wild fish feeding at Aquascene.

A devastating cyclone during 1890s, World War II, Cyclone Tracy, and economic disasters have made Darwin ‘dead and buried’ at various times, yet Australia’s least populated capital city has survived and prospered.

Darwin has a number of annual events worth coinciding with a visit, including the Darwin Cup around July where local and interstate ‘high rollers’ kick up their heels. There’s also the annual Supercars motor race in June, dragon boat racing, and a moving service remembering the bombing in World War II in February.

There are some great restaurants dotted around the CBD and wharf precinct, with lovely views over the water, and fantastic freshly cooked food available at the weekly markets, Mindil Beach Market particularly. Tasty fish and chips can be bought at Cullen Bay and eaten on the beach.

There many places that serve Asian food reflecting the multicultural past and present of Darwin.

History on display

Darwin’s history is represented through the many buildings around town, mixing elements of the past with modern architecture. Apart from the splendid Admiralty House on the Esplanade, there’s a little galvanised house surrounded by multistorey hotels.

Near the Cullen Bay Marina is Myilly Point where there are some splendid old buildings built in the 1930s designed by BCG Burnett for senior public servants.

These are looked after by the National Trust and Burnett House is open most days, with high tea on Sunday afternoon, which is well worth a visit (note the bullet holes in the front fence).

For more walks down memory lane try the open-air theatre near the wharf – how about Casablanca under the stars?

Head to the Wharf

The Wharf Precinct is also a great spot for a swim, with a protected lagoon and plenty of shady grass, while the kids can surf the Wave Lagoon and bounce off the Big Buoy inflatable play equipment.

One of Darwin’s most famous night markets, Mindil Beach Sunset Market runs on Thursday and Sunday evenings between April and October. While away a couple of hours wandering among the stalls, watching the street theatre, and chomping on tasty Asian street food before heading to the beach for a legendary NT sunset.

There’s the military museum at East Point and reminders of the bombing on the Esplanade, with plaques representing different units that were stationed during the bombing. Descriptions of the severity and duration of the Japanese raids are etched into the plaques as a constant reminder of those who died.

On the February 29, 1942 more bombs were dropped on Darwin than on Pearl Harbour and 250 people were killed. More raids, albeit less intense than the first, continued until December 1943.

Another fascinating way to learn about the war times is a tour of the World War II Oil Storage Tunnels, near the Wharf Precinct. These impressive underground tunnels (so big you could drive a caravan through!) were dug by hand to protect the oil reserves and are now open to the public as a self-guided tour.

A stroll through the leafy Bicentennial Park overlooking the Timor Sea also reveals memorial plaques, and a large gun taken from one of the war ships sunk in the harbor.

Relive Cyclone Tracy

The excellent Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory near Fannie Bay is a good place to get some idea of what it was like during Cyclone Tracy, with an impressive display that includes sound recordings taken during the storm, replayed in a darkened chamber. There’s also impressive natural history and Aboriginal art displays, including a display of the well-preserved ‘Sweetheart’, the monster 5.1m crocodile.

If you’re keen to get up close to a live croc, the pricey ‘Cage of Death’ at Darwin’s Crocosaurus Cove is the place to go.  For those more interested in a terrific, man-made aquarium display of colourful living coral, head to Indo Pacific Marine along the Darwin Harbour.

Darwin has a tropical atmosphere that is unique and, for those who yearn for a more humid climate, it’s a great reason to visit.

While most people travel to Darwin during the southern winter to escape the cold, the Wet adds another dimension to a visit up north.

The lightning, rain, rivers, waterfalls and greenery are spectacular. Interestingly, the temperature in Darwin is generally always between 30-35°C.

The Wet is humid but does not have so much direct sunlight. If you don’t mind sweating, the end of the Wet is a good time to visit as it’s not nearly as busy.

Places to stay

There are about 20 caravan parks in Darwin and the greater Darwin area (Howard Springs, Humpty Doo, Berry Springs, etc). Other parks in the vicinity are Hidden Valley and Coolalinga Caravan Parks, and Palms Village Resort.

An easy 15 minute drive from the CBD, the BIG4 Howard Springs holiday park is always a good option due its size and excellent facilities.  Most of the sites are shaded and among the many attractions are a splash park, jumping pillow and the ‘Porta Potti Palace’ dump point.