Travel: Cosy Cabins, Tas

By Gordon and Pamela May

Fettlers, fishermen, piners and miners of the 1800s could not have pictured Strahan as a world famous holiday destination. For them, the port led to primitive accommodation and unremitting toil in local mountains and waterways.

Strahan has definitely changed. Popular accommodation options at Cosy Cabins Seaside Park include self-contained heated cabins, plus spacious caravan and tent sites – all within a beach stroll of Strahan village.

We were completely impressed by the quality of the fully equipped cabins and were tempted to take a double (also available in family size).

However, managers Marianne and Barry had already shown us to our idea of campers’ heaven – a powered site handy to the beach, a barbecue gazebo, a snug camp kitchen and other amenities.

Our closest brush with ‘unremitting toil’ was poring over brochures outlining superb local tours. The choices were hard to make but easy to take.

Situated beside Macquarie Harbour, Strahan village has its own charm, with heritage buildings and a quaint shopping precinct fronting the wharf. Cafes and restaurants tempt the tastebuds with the best of the west’s crayfish, salmon and trout.

Every summer, sand dunes at nearby Ocean Beach become a 33km long rookery for mutton birds. A little further north, big kids can enjoy controlled hooning on the 30m high Henty Dunes, astride hired four-wheeled quad bikes.

However Strahan is best known as the gateway to World Heritage temperate rainforests and mighty rivers.

Purpose-built catamarans and yachts operate harbour cruises ranging from two hours to full day and overnight trips. Highlights include tours of historic Sarah Island Penal Colony – abandoned in 1833 in favour of the less harsh conditions of the Port Arthur Penitentiary.

An approach to ‘Hells Gate’ reveals why dozens of ships were wrecked by wild waves funnelling through the harbour’s narrow mouth. In sheltered coves, some cruises provide guided walks to view remnants of ancient Huon pine forests.

For a real buzz, helicopters and fixed-wing aircraft provide 15-65 minute sweeps of the huge harbour and its magnificent surroundings. Charter flights can also be arranged to other points of interest, like the historic mining township of Zeehan.

Rain almost stopped play for us, but the Cosy Cabins managers mentioned a novel way to sightsee in comfort – the West Coast Wilderness Railway. It was love at first sight of the old steam train and we treated ourselves to premier carriage seats.

From 1896 to 1963 the 35km railway carted copper concentrates from Queenstown mines to Strahan’s port facilities. In 2002, after huge injections of finance and labour, the restored rail system began its new life as a unique passenger service.

Relaxing on upholstered seats, sipping champagne and nibbling pastries, cheese and fruit, we tried to imagine the privations suffered by pioneer railway workers in such rugged terrain.

In places the line teeters on the edge of King River Gorge and crosses the river several times via trestle bridges.

After passing through virtual tunnels of myrtle, sassafras, blackwoods and ferns, the train slows near Teepookana for passengers to snap the colourful Iron Bridge.

Leatherwood honey tastings are enjoyed at the old Lower Landing station, where boardwalks provide easy access to the lush rainforest.

At the former Dubbil Barril (sic) Station, cogwheels under the engine connect with a central rack-and-pinion track for the steep haul up to Rinadeena Saddle.

On the downhill side, the train eventually runs alongside Queen River to terminate at Queenstown. Passengers have time to explore the remote town before returning to Strahan by bus, thereby experiencing an entirely different terrain.

After a full day of new sights and experiences, we planned to have a very early night. It was not to be.

Back at the park, Happy Hour enthusiasts had gathered in the barbecue gazebo discussing attractions accessed from other Cosy Cabins parks in prime Tasmanian destinations. We couldn’t resist the chance to gain holiday hints over sundowners and travel tips over a barbecue dinner.

Cosy Cabins fast Facts

Cosy Cabins, Seaside, Corner Andrew and Innes Streets, Strahan, Tas 7468, 1800 454 292, (03) 6472 6200, email: strahan@cosycabins.com.au, web: www.cosycabins.com.au

For more information about the West Coast Wilderness Railway call 1800 420 155.