Travel: Clarence Coast Resort, Yamba, NSW

By Stephanie Jackson

For me, the ideal travel location is one that is close to water, has an abundance of wildlife and birds, that is not overcrowded, and guarantees peace and quiet. Places that meet these criteria are usually out in ‘the sticks' and are relatively primitive, which means roughing it to a reasonable degree. So when I stumbled upon the Clarence Coast Resort, just a 10-minute drive from the NSW coastal town of Yamba, it seemed too good to be true.

The resort is located on Palmer's Island, the second-largest of Clarence River's more than 100 islands, and has the river literally on its doorstep. Kangaroos doze in the shade of the forest and as the park is situated on a dead-end road, peace and quiet reigns.

The surrounding landscape is dominated by sugar cane plantations, but much of the park's 130 acres is covered by forest. You don't have to venture into the forest to see wildlife: the lawns provide a welcoming environment for kangaroos, while reed-fringed pools are populated by ducks, spoonbills, herons, ibis, and egrets.

Phil and Nicki Primrose bought Clarence Coast Resort, then in a very run-down state, seven years ago. The hard work they have put in is evident in the range of facilities, new amenities and sprawling gardens that have earned the resort its four-star rating.

Of the 64 powered RV sites most are drive-through, with concrete slabs, and are more than ample for the largest of rigs. As Phil says, "With 130 acres - even though much of it is undeveloped - there is no need to squeeze vans in too close together."

The cavernous amenities block is a unique concept with toilet and shower blocks, laundry, and office all radiating out from a central covered courtyard. So, in inclement weather, supervising young children in the shower, doing the washing and ironing, and spending a penny can all be accomplished without a frantic dash through the rain from one section of the amenities to the other.

Everything here is light, bright, airy and immaculate, with flowers by the wash basins and shower curtains to alleviate that common complaint of wet clothes, adding an unexpected touch of homeliness. The laundry has plenty of everything: ironing boards and irons ready for use, dryers, washing machines, wash tubs, and endless sorting space. There are also separate facilities for visitors with a disability.

To-do list
With plenty of activities on offer at the Clarence Coast Resort, fishing rates high on the list. The park boasts the largest water frontage of any NSW caravan park with a track leading to the river where there are additional powered sites, a boat ramp and an area for cleaning fish.

Here you can be as energetic or lazy as your mood dictates. Pull up one of the many park benches dotted around the grounds and sit and watch the birds, or take a dip in the pool. (Locals warned me that bronze whaler sharks are regularly seen in the river, so I'm definitely sticking with the pool!)

There is a playground, mini-golf course, and an extensive grassed area where kids can play all day and bother no one with their exuberant noise - frisbees, soccer balls and children's games are available for use, free of charge.

If you prefer to laze around in comfort, the campers' lounge is the place to be: TV, pool table and a video player with a wide selection of free movies to watch. It's just the spot to settle down into the soft with a good book from those on the shelf after a hard day's fishing.

Between the heart of the park and the river, "Didyabringyagrogalong" is a camp kitchen that's much more than the old stove and rustic wooden table setup commonly provided.

The kitchen at Clarence Coast Resort is equipped with modern fridges, freezers, gas stoves, microwaves, and all the utensils needed to cook up a banquet.

The large, covered deck outside has gas barbecues and tables, and makes for an ideal meeting place to mix with other travellers, cook the day's catch or share the tales of the one that got away. There's a sink outside for cleaning fish, then all you have to do is toss it on the barbie.

The park seems isolated, miles from anywhere, yet in reality it's only 10 minutes away from the heart of Yamba, at the mouth of the Clarence River, where fishing, both commercial and recreational, dominates almost every aspect of life.

I'd spent a few days taking on all that Yamba offers: I rose at dawn to watch fishermen cast their lines from rocks at the base of the lighthouse; I saw some of the more-than-100 trawlers based at Yamba returning to port with the rising sun and watched schools of dolphins frolic near the shore. I investigated secluded sandy beaches, the rocky shore of nearby Angourie, and sections of the vast Yuraygir National Park that sprawls along the coast. A highlight was the kayaking tour which explores the channels and islands of the estuary.

Returning to the resort late in the day, it was time to indulge in more leisurely pursuits. By this time fishermen had returned with bream, flathead, and flounder, and a boy arrived in his dinghy with a haul of crabs. Pelicans and herons, ignoring fish darting through the clear water that lapped at the boat ramp, were patiently awaiting the easy meal the fishermen would provide. I sat by the river and watched the sun set with the company of water birds, and the serenity of the river's silence - the perfect end to a perfect stay.

Clarence Coast Resort fast facts
A Big 4 member, Clarence Coast Resort is located on O'Keefe's Lane, Palmer's Island, about 8km west of Yamba, NSW. Contact Nicki and Phil Primrose, (02) 6646 0468, or 1800 460 468, fax (02) 6646 0466 or email resort@hotkey.net.au

Camp kitchen and campers' lounge are built on stumps to protect them from possible flooding, and have ramps to provide easy access for every visitor.

Ice, gas, bait, and basic groceries are available at the office, with a small store on the highway only a five-minute drive.

Pets are not permitted, but there is a boarding kennel nearby.

Reductions for weekly or stays. Additional charge of $7 per night for children more than 5 years old. Cabins are also available, priced from $88 in the low season.

At Yamba
Boat hire (tinnies only) at the Yamba Marina from $40 for two hours, $60 half-day, $80 full-day, (02) 6646 9245.

Adventure One Cruises, Yamba Marina, (02) 6646 3357, 0408 755 789, email info@adventure1cruises.com.au, www.adventure1cruises.com.au Adult $20, senior $18, child $8, family $49.

Yamba Kayak - River and sea kayaking tours: three-hour tour - child $40, adult $50; five hour tour - $75 flat rate. Phone Yamba Kayak on (02) 6646 1137.