Travel: Central Australia

By Ron and Viv Moon

A pinnacle of soft sandstone rock that has stood for millennia on the vast sand plain south of Alice Springs, was a magnet for early explorers.

First discovered by John McDouall Stuart in 1860 and named by him after one of his sponsors, Chambers Pillar quickly became a landmark for other explorers and travellers by which to navigate. Many left their initials carved in the soft rock as testimony to their passing, and these can still be seen today.

Now Chambers Pillar attracts travellers wanting to get away from it all and experience a piece of Australian history.

The track south to Chambers Pillar from Alice Springs follows the old Ghan Railway Line for much of the way south. It's sandy for the majority of the trip but is fairly well maintained as far as Maryvale Homestead.

Along the track south you'll pass the small reserve protecting the Ewaninga rock carvings. This small site situated on the edge of a claypan is a sign of earlier activities in this harsh desert country.

Animal tracks, circles and wavy lines are etched into the red rock. While there is some conjecture on how old these engravings or petroglyphs are, most agree they are at least 1000 to 5000 years old, helping to make the rock art at this site some of the earliest found in Central Australia.

Deep Well Station, which takes up much of the country on both sides of the track south, was established by the legendary Hayes family in 1884. Today, six generations later, Bill and Jan Hayes run the property and offer travellers a range of accommodation and a variety of tours to enjoy.

Just a little further south, the Hugh River Stock Route joins the Old Ghan Line. This stock route heads west, crossing the Stuart Highway before joining the Finke River near Running Waters Yard.

Just a short distance west of the track junction is the Oak Valley Aboriginal community. They now have a small camping ground and run bush tucker trips. This route west also acts as a shortcut from the highway to Chambers Pillar, or another route back to Alice, where the magnificent Rainbow Valley can be visited along the way.

The route to Chambers Pillar leaves the old railway line near the ruins of the Rodinga Railway siding. One of many along the Old Ghan Railway, this siding was in operation between 1929 and 1980 when the line was ripped up and sold to Qld cane farmers.

Maryvale homestead and the nearby Aboriginal community of Titjikala can supply basic food and fuel. Titjikala also has an upmarket tented camp for tourists wanting to experience, as their website details, the 'ultimate, authentic indigenous experience'.

Once south of Maryvale the route is sandy and crosses a number of wide, soft creeks making it only passable by a 4WD vehicle.

Once you enter the historical reserve you quickly realise that there is more than just Chambers Pillar to attract your attention. Close by is Castle Rock, while dotted across the wide vista of rolling sand plains are other outcrops jutting above the near flat surface.

A number of walking tracks take you in and around both Chambers Pillar and Castle Rock. The views offered by the highest points of these trails are spectacular, especially in the evening or early morning light.

Another historical site worth an overnight visit or longer is the Arltunga Historical Reserve, which is situated about 110km east of Alice Springs.

Instead of taking the bitumen along the edge of the Eastern MacDonnell Ranges, the more adventurous traveller can take the East MacDonnell 4WD Route, which leaves the bitumen east of the Emily and Jessie Gaps Nature Park. Just over 40km further east after the dirt road crosses the Ross River, the track heads north and gives access to N'dhala Gorge.

A small camping area is located close to the entrance to the reserve and there are some excellent walks in the area, taking you to some of the 5900 ancient Aboriginal rock engravings that can be found here.

Further north you'll pass the famous Ross River Homestead, which is one of the oldest tourist facilities in Central Australia. Under new management, it has undergone a vibrant upgrade and as always is worth a stopover.

Arltunga, a little further east, was founded on the discovery of gold in 1887 at Paddy's Rockhole by Joseph Hele. Over the next 20 years alluvial gold was found in the many dry creek beds in the area but it was always a struggle, with water being scarce and the closest supply point being Oodnadatta.

When the rains did come it often resulted in flash flooding, one such flood resulted in the loss of 200 sheep and three Aboriginal shepherds.

A shanty town sprang up there close to the fields and this was the first township in Central Australia, even though the Alice Springs Telegraph Station was already in operation.

In 1897 a government-owned stamper battery and cyaniding plant was constructed north of the police station. By 1904 it had crushed nearly 7000 tonnes of rock and produced over 9500 ounces of gold, but by then there were less than 40 men on the field.

In the 1930s a small rush took place when H. Jenkins found gold and he erected a small battery, crushing ore for himself and the few other miners working in this remote region.

Many of the first miners here were Cornishmen fresh from the famous mines in SA at Moonta and Wallaroo. These workers were noted for their fine stonework. Today, many of the buildings they built in this remote and dry region of Australia have been restored as a monument to their skill and spirit.

The Arltunga Bush Hotel, with its camping ground, is found shortly before you enter the reserve. A visitors' centre is located north of the hotel, within the reserve.

A dirt road gives access to the heart of the park, the government works and police station area. An easy walking trail links the two historic sites where you'll also see an old two-head stamper.

The Golden Chance and MacDonnell Range mine areas are found a little further east. Once again there are a couple of walking tracks in this area, along with a few ruins to visit.

The crossroads, further east again, was once the heart of the original shanty town. Not much remains, although an early settlers' cemetery can be found nearby.

To the south there are a number of mines and alluvial gold workings - to the east of the crossroads are the Great Western, White Range and Joker Gorge mine sites, all with short walking trails and ruins.

On the southern boundary of the historical reserve is a designated gold fossicking area. This is the only area where fossicking is allowed and you need an NT Fossicker's Permit (available from the visitors' centre). Located south of the park boundary is the old Santa Teresa mission site, known as the 'Little Flower'.

It's easy to spend a few days in and around the Arltunga area, whether you are a history buff or not. And when you want to head back to Alice, drive north from Arltunga to Claraville Homestead, where you can turn west toward the Stuart Highway, meeting it about 50km north of the central Australian capital.

It's a pleasant drive after discovering yet another highlight of Central Australia.

Central Australia Fast Facts: