Travel: Carnarvon Gorge, Qld

Bushwalkers are a friendly lot. You pass someone going the opposite direction along a dusty walking track and receive a "Morning", or "Hi", or even an encouraging "Not far to go!".

Such is the experience when you visit Carnarvon Gorge in the Carnarvon National Park, 245km northwest of Roma, Qld. Here, Aboriginal rock art and sites of natural beauty are accessed by walking tracks, many of which branch off the main track that follows the Carnarvon Creek almost 10km along the gorge. A small community of cheerful support staff make a visit to Carnarvon Gorge both educational and fun.

Although more than 100km from the nearest town, the gorge is well serviced with camping facilities, cabin accommodation, dry groceries and the Carnarvon Gorge Wilderness Lodge Restaurant.

The information centre at the day-use area is manned by Queensland Parks and Wildlife rangers, has a public phone, library and nature displays and is open seven days a week. Guided tours of the gorge are available during peak season, which runs from April to October when the weather is generally pleasant for walking.

Takarakka Bush Resort, located just four kilometres from the day-use area of Carnarvon Gorge, is open year-round and suits tents, camper trailers, campervans, caravans, motorhomes and buses, with both powered and unpowered sites.

Its facilities include toilets, hot showers, a modern kitchen complete with four gas cooktops, huge dining tables and two gas barbecues. Drinking water is readily available to top up your supply, which is essential for a day's bushwalking.

The shared open campfires at Takarakka can be used for camp oven cooking and socialising. Campers can gather around a fire in the early evening to share tales of the day and discuss walking tracks they would like to try in the morning.

Many species of wildlife shelter in Carnarvon Gorge. Grey kangaroos lounge on the grass around the information centre, and birdwatching is a popular activity, with 183 species identified including the glossy-black cockatoo, peregrine falcons and wedge-tailed eagles.

Platypuses are often seen in the creek at dusk and early morning from points along the Rock Pool Walk, and there are a number of interesting plant species, such as the Macrozamia cycad and king fern.

Aboriginal rock art at Carnarvon Gorge is believed to represent some 3500 years of visitation, and takes two forms: paintings and engravings. Both are well suited to adorn the soft sandstone walls.

Stencils were made by spraying from the mouth a mixture of animal fat, ochre and water over a template such as a boomerang. The liquid penetrated the sandstone rock without disturbing its sandy surface. Engravings take advantage of the loosely-held structure of the rock, and representations include emu and kangaroo tracks.

Carnarvon Gorge is a fascinating place to visit, suiting both the occasional bushwalker and the dedicated hiker. Be aware that much of the 21km of walking tracks is unsuitable for prams and bicycles are not permitted. However, baby backpacks are popular, given you can easily withstand your child's weight, and the rangers provide sturdy walking sticks. You are sure to encounter friendly faces to encourage you along!

Carnarvon Gorge fast facts
Carnarvon Gorge is located between Emerald and Roma in central Qld. Please note that there is no fuel at Carnarvon Gorge and you will need to fill up at Injune or Rolleston.

Check weather conditions with the information centre before setting out to Carnarvon Gorge, as there is 25km of dirt road into the park with several creek crossings that flood following heavy rainfall. In dry weather the road is readily passed by 2WD and 4WD vehicles towing caravans.

To reach Carnarvon Gorge, travel from Roma 90km north to Injune, then 111km to the signed turnoff into the gorge. From the turnoff drive 45km into the Carnarvon National Park.

If you are travelling from Emerald to Carnarvon Gorge, drive 135km south-east to Rolleston via Springsure. From Rolleston, it is a further 61km south to the Carnarvon Gorge turnoff.

Camping sites at Carnarvon Gorge are popular and limited, so book at least six months in advance of your visit. The peak season is April to October because heat and rainfall in the summer months discourage walking.

Takarakka Bush Resort: Carnarvon Gorge Via Rolleston, Qld, (07) 4984 4535, fax: (07) 4984 4556, email takarakka@takarakka.com.au, web www.takarakka.com.au

Carnarvon Gorge, Carnarvon National Park

13 QGOV (13 74 68) | https://parks.des.qld.gov.au/parks/carnarvon-gorge