Travel: Broken Hill, NSW

By Heather Donovan

Once situated atop the world’s largest silver, lead and zinc deposits, the ‘Silver City’ of Broken Hill has had a colourful mining history. These days, mining no longer dominates the lives of most citizens.

With its wide streets and many grandiose, historic buildings, this ‘city in the wilderness’ has plenty to entertain visitors for a week or more including a number of mine tours.

One such adventure is Delprats Underground Tours, where visitors descend a mine shaft down 400ft via a cage into Deprat’s No. 5, an old BHP mine. Each visitor gets their own miner’s hat complete with a lamp for a truly ‘authentic’ mine experience.

More than mining

More than 50 live and work in Broken Hill and there are a great many galleries competing for attention.

You can visit the School of the Air and watch teachers interacting with students hundreds of kilometres away or tour the Royal Flying Doctor Base and its hangar.

The Railway, Mining and Hospital Museum, in the lovely old sandstone railway station, is worth a visit, or perhaps you’d prefer a game at the Two Up School, the profits from which go towards boosting tourism in the region.

Travellers can also watch the giant Indian Pacific Railway snake into town twice a week. The Afghan Mosque, built in 1891 on the site of a former camel camp, is the only surviving mosque of outback cameleers who carried provisions to the far-flung pioneers and miners more than a century ago.

The Broken Hill Visitor Information Centre, on the corner of Blende and Bromide streets, is the best place to start your visit with informative interpretive displays, maps, tourist information, souvenirs, tour bookings, car rental and a cafe.

Collect the brochure The Silver Trail - a Guide to the Heritage of Broken Hill and take some self-guided tours. The 40km Drive Trail takes in 113 points of interest in and around town including such lookouts as ‘Joe Keenan’ for panoramic views across the city.

An artist’s delight

Built in 1888 this magnificent, three-storey hotel boasts the largest wrought iron balcony in the State and is classified by the National Trust.

The interior walls are decorated with an incredible array of murals, including the splendid Birth of Venus on the foyer ceiling which was painted by Mario himself. Although the upstairs accommodation areas and lavish dining room are not open to the public, Mario kindly allowed me to look at this amazing collection of paintings.

Two-hour guided walking tours also depart from the Visitor Centre at 10am on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Opposite the centre is Kintore Reserve with mining relics – including Broken Hill’s oldest wooden poppet head – and giant metal sculptures by Pro Hart.

One of the most impressive attractions is the Living Desert Reserve and its bold sandstone sculptures. Situated 5km north of town on a former mullock heap, the park gives extensive views across the city and desert.

The Living Desert Reserve covers more than 800 hectares of wilderness, picnic areas and walking trails which are well marked for self-guided walks.

A steep, 1.5km – or longer, but easier – walk leads to a group of 12 giant sculptures standing Stonehenge-like atop the hill.

Local Lawrence Beck was concerned that although Broken Hill was groaning under the weight of paintings, there were very few sculptures.

In 1993 these giant sandstone pieces were transported 240km from a site east of Wilcannia and set in their current location overlooking the town. Twelve sculptors from Australia, Mexico, Bathurst Island, Georgia and Damascus were assembled for an eight-week symposium to create these unique works of art.

They laboured 14 hours a day, seven days a week and the finished products are spectacular, modernistic sculptures with titles such as ‘Motherhood’, ‘Angels of the Sun’ and, the most photographed of all, ‘Bajo El Sol Jaguar’ (Under the Jaguar Sun) by Antonio Nava Tirado, an Aztec Indian sculptor from Mexico.

Although these sculptures are impressive at any time of day; sunset and sunrise are the most popular times to visit. The Reserve is open all hours and there’s no entry fee.

Those not able to walk to the top of the hill can drive up; a key ($5 per vehicle with a $10 refundable deposit) can be obtained from the Visitor Centre to gain access through a locked gate.

Beyond Broken Hill

Silverton, 25km north of the city, is an older settlement, having been a prosperous silver mining town when Broken Hill was just a geographical feature. The town once had a population of 3000 with stone churches, banks and public buildings, but the silver ran out after less than 20 years.

However its ghostlike appearance, with the few remaining buildings scattered across barren hillsides, is deceptive. Many of these buildings now house art galleries, the pub is well and truly operative and the Old Gaol is a museum full of pioneering and mining memorabilia.

You can take a camel tour of the town or follow the Silverton Heritage Trail from Penrose Park to the edge of the Mundi Mundi Plains, while the Umberumberka Reservoir has picnic areas and lookouts across the water and the desert.

One hundred kilometres east of Broken Hill is historic Menindee and the marvellous aquatic playground of the Menindee Lakes for swimming, sailing, fishing, camping and relaxation. Burke and Wills, during their epic outback expedition, spent several weeks at Maidens Hotel, which has changed little since then.

Nearby Kinchega National Park is a haven for wildlife and a great camping spot, too. There are scenic drives and walks along the Darling River and around numerous lakes as well as the pastoral heritage of historic Kinchega Station.

Further north are Mootwingee National Park and Mootwingee Historic Site with stunning scenery and rich Aboriginal art. Even further afield are the extensive Sturt National Park and the opal mining town of White Cliffs.

Broken Hill’s newest attraction is the Line of Lode Miners’ Monument atop the old slag heaps which is visible from most parts of town. A ‘sculpture’ consisting of a series of giant, rusted metal slabs set on end, its interior contains a list of the many miners who died while working underground. There’s also an information centre, gift shop and cafe, all open daily.

For history, scenic attractions and the lure of the outback, Broken Hill makes a great base.

Broken Hill facts

Broken Hill is 1244km west of Sydney via the Barrier Highway, 813km north-west of Melbourne via Mildura and the Silver City Highway and 525km north-east of Adelaide also via the Barrier Highway, all sealed roads.

Royal Flying Doctor Service (at the airport) open daily 10.30am-3.30pm.

School of the Air, Lane Street, open Monday to Friday from 8.30am during school terms.

Railway Museum, Blende Street, open daily 10am-3pm.

Afghan Mosque, cnr William and Buck streets, open Sunday 2.30pm-4.30pm.

The Line of Lode Miners’ Monument, (08) 8088 6000, www.lineoflodebrokenhill.org.au.

Where to stay

There are two recommended parks in town with space for motorhomes.

Lake View Caravan Park, 1 Mann Street, is spacious with good facilities including BBQ, kiosk, playground, camp kitchen and pool, (08) 8088 2250.