Travel: Bowen, Qld

Take a town that boasts 10 beaches, nine caravan parks, (six of them beachside) six hotels, three bowling clubs, a golf club and what has been described as "the perfect climate" and you will soon realise why Bowen has become a favourite destination for hundreds of southern visitors during the winter months each year. Add to this a variety of shops and supermarkets, medical facilities including a hospital, and a movie theatre (one of the oldest in Qld), and visitors have all they need to make a home away from home.

Bowen is north Qld's oldest town and was formed in 1861 when a land party led by George Dalrymple met up with Captain Henry Sinclair aboard the ketch, Santa Barbara, at Port Denison in Edgecumbe Bay. Sinclair had discovered the bay and Port Denison two years earlier and described it as comparable to Sydney's Port Jackson. Edgecumbe Bay is hidden from view by Gloucester Island, which was discovered by Captain James Cook in 1770, who named it Cape Gloucester believing it to be part of the mainland.

Approximately five kilometres south of Bowen on the Bruce Highway, travellers will find the tourist information centre beside Bowen's own claim to 'big landmark' fame. Standing over 15m tall is the Big Mango and from here you get your first view of Bowen across the bay. Inside the information centre is all you will need about accommodation, events, activities, hotels and clubs of interest. Staff will even ring ahead to check on available accommodation for you.

If you are thinking of a trip to Bowen, you might even like to call the centre and have information sent to you before leaving home. Two kilometres further on are two of the town's many caravan parks, Bowen Village Caravan and Tourist Park and Bowen Palms Caravan Park. Both are set on large acreage and have become popular as a stopover for travellers heading further north or south, particularly for those needing that little extra room to manoeuvre large motorhomes.

Southern visitors from Tas, Vic, SA and NSW point their RVs north and flock to Bowen each year to enjoy what has been described as the "Gem of the Coral Coast". Crowds start to arrive soon after Easter, with the main influx between mid-May and the end of June.

They swim, fish, bowl, play golf, snorkel in pristine waters and generally enjoy a comfortable winter, while their less-fortunate loved ones bear up under monotonous conditions back home.

The temperature in this part of the world in winter varies by only a couple of degrees during the day, from 24ºC to 28ºC, and during the night seldom drops below 15ºC. The water temperature is an almost constant 22ºC and a day hardly goes by that the beaches aren't busy.

The most popular beach is Horseshoe Bay, aptly named for its almost perfect horseshoe shape. You can easily spot the locals - they're the ones in jeans and long sleeves. They all reckon we're a bit mad swimming at this time of year. (Mind you, the time of year doesn't matter for some. I've met Queenslanders who reckon that water is only for fish, and to drink when there's no beer.)

Winter in this part of Qld heralds some great fishing for those who either fish from a boat or from the land. In fact, on many occasions, the land-based angler will do better than the 'boaties'. Bowen is occasionally plagued by strong winds, so much so that some refer to it as "Blowin' Bowen".

No matter which direction the wind comes from, intrepid anglers will always find somewhere to fish out of the wind: the jetty on the eastern shore of Port Denison; Kings Beach, also on the east of town; north-based Queens Beach and Grays Bay Beach; not to mention a variety of creeks and inlets in and around town, together with rocky headlands at Dalrymple Point, Rose Bay and Murray Bay.

The fish caught run from the smaller varieties such as whiting, bream and flathead to some very impressive sized golden trevally, snub-nosed dart, cobia and mackerel.

Fishing is one of Bowen's most important industries and the boat harbour is home to a large fleet of trawlers and line-fishing boats, as well as a steady flow of visiting yachts.

In recent years Bowen has attracted a lot of international business through its live fishing exports including coral trout, cod and wrasse, mainly to the Asian markets.

A visit to the fish co-op is well worth the trip, not only to buy some of the local catch, but you might be lucky enough to be there when the live fish tanks are open for inspection.

The other main industry in Bowen is the production of fruit and vegetables. Most Australians have heard of Bowen tomatoes and mangoes, but it has also become one of Qld's primary producers of melons, pumpkins, capsicums, beans, sweet corn, zucchini and cucumbers. This is a multi-million dollar industry, estimated to be worth between $200 and $300 million a year, employing more than 2000 people.

Throughout the area visitors will find that a very active historical society has commemorated Bowen's historical events with plaques and monuments and has collected a huge amount of local memorabilia in the town's museum, which is recognised as one of the best in north Qld (if not the State) and is well worth a visit.

Also a must-see is the collection of more than 20 murals painted on buildings throughout the town. The murals depict the history of Bowen - its original settlement and industries down though time to the present - and have been painted by many well known artists. Guided walking tours can be arranged by contacting the municipal library in town.

Bowen has become a walker's paradise, with anything from short and easy stints to treks requiring a fair bit of determination and stamina to complete.

You can stroll along quiet stretches of sand on Queens Beach or Kings Beach. There is also a paved walking track from Horseshoe Bay that follows the waterfront of Grays Bay for three kilometres to the start of Queens Beach.

One of the most picturesque walks starts at Horseshoe Bay up to the Lookout that observes Edgecumbe Bay to Gloucester Island then downhill to Murray Bay and Rose Bay. Along the way you will see some remarkable scenery and may be lucky enough to sight one of the resident rock wallabies.

There is something for everyone in Bowen, whether you looking for a quiet snooze on the beach or the adventure of catching one of its big fish.

But be warned, it can be addictive. Spend one winter here and the following year you will crave those warm days and sultry nights the following year, and the next, and the next...

Bowen Fast Facts
You will find Bowen 1165km north of Brisbane and 212km south of Townsville on the Bruce Highway. The town is the administrative centre of one of Qld's largest shires, covering approximately 21,000 square kilometres.

The shire has a population of 13,800: 9000 in Bowen alone and the rest in the outlying rural area.

Once you drive into Bowen you will find the caravan parks are very well signposted. Watch for signs leading to Beach Resorts on the Woolworths corner. To the left from Soldiers Rd, choose from three parks:

Wangaratta Caravan Park (on Golf Links Road, beachfront and beside Bowen Golf Club), (07) 4785 1152.

Queens Beach Caravan Park (behind the Queens Beach Hotel), (07) 4785 1313.

Tropical Beach Caravan Park (in Howard Street, absolute beachfront), (07) 4785 1490.

Heading straight down Soldiers Rd you will find the Coral Coast Caravan Park on the corner of Soldiers and Horseshoe Bay roads, (07) 4785 1262. This park also faces the beach.

Further along Horseshoe Bay Road there is a turnoff on the right to Rosebay. Here you will find the Rosebay Caravan Park, (07) 4786 2388. At the very end of Horseshoe Bay Road is the Horseshoe Bay Resort, (07) 4786 2564. Situated on one of Qld's best beaches this park has a pool, separate heated spa, sauna and beachfront cafe/restaurant.

All these parks are situated two to five kilometres from the centre of town but if staying in the centre is more to your liking, head to Harbour Lights Caravan Park on Santa Barbara Parade at the bottom end of town. Book on 1300 559 124. Bowen Village Caravan and Tourist Park: (07) 4786 1460.

Bowen Palms Caravan Park: (07) 4786 2994.

Bowen Tourist Information Centre: (07) 4786 4222.