Trailer braking for dummies

Dragging a caravan or camper trailer around used to be a fairly simple affair. That is, until we started going bigger, heavier and more complicated.

With that burden comes the need for big tow tugs and superb maxi 4WDs, beautiful multi-axle trailers and, yes, hot brakes.

But at what point does your tow rig need brakes? Are you legal? And insured? And do you know how to use the brakes and maintain them?

Our in-house towing expert sheds light on the calipers, discs, drums and actuators that can mean the difference between a safe tow on the highway to camping nirvana and, well, let's no go there…

NO BRAKES HERE

If you're towing a trailer weighing 750kg Gross Trailer Mass (GTM) or less - which is only the weight on the trailer wheels, not including the weight on the towball - you don't legally need trailer brakes. This weight, and all other weights mentioned here, only relate to legal requirements for trailer braking systems.

The rules about what weight you can legally carry in your vehicle and trailer are different. To get the full run-down on the rules for trailer brakes, have a look at Vehicle Standards Bulletin 1 on the Department of Infrastructure, Regional Development and Cities website.

But you have to be careful here, because GTM includes the weight of your trailer, and everything else within the entire on-road rig. So that means stuff like your camp chairs, food, extra fuel, water - everything you chuck aboard is part of the weigh-in.

If your trailer has no brakes and has a GTM of 751kg or more, you'll be up for a fine at the least — and possibly no insurance cover if you have a crash.

Don't guess: load up as you normally would for a trip and take your caravan or camper to a public weigh bridge and get it weighed. If you're over, then carry more stuff in the car or ute tray rather than the van.

THE MIDDLE WEIGHTS

If you're towing a trailer weighing between 750kg and 2000kg GTM, you must have trailer brakes by law. But there are a few types that you can use.

Override mechanical or override hydraulic are fine, as are electric brakes or electric/hydraulic. If you go for an electric or electric/hydraulic braking system, you'll need an electric brake controller fitted in your tow vehicle for the brakes to work. See below…

THE HEAVY HITTERS

With trailerboats weighing more than 2000kg GTM, the law says you need brakes where there's a control for the brakes within reach of the driver.

The most common and practical braking system of this type is electric brakes (either electric or electric/hydraulic).

The regulations also say that the trailer must have brakes on all axles, and have a breakaway system.

A breakaway system automatically applies the trailer brakes if the coupling becomes detached from the towing vehicle, and must stay energised for at least 15 minutes after being activated.

SET-UP TIPS

You have to set up an electric brake controller for the trailer brakes to work effectively.

You can do this by firstly towing your van to a quiet, preferably straight road...

1. Set the controller to about mid-point on the gain dial (so for a dial marked from 0 to 10, start on 5).
2. Now drive to about 40km/h and pull up.
3. If the tow vehicle feels like it's being pushed by the trailer when you're braking, there isn't enough trailer braking.
4. If the trailer wheels lock up, you have too much trailer braking.
5. Increase or decrease the gain in one level increments (that is, up from five to six, or down from five to four and so on) until you're happy with the level of trailer braking.

MAINTAIN YOUR BRAKES

Cable-operated brakes will need the cables adjusted periodically.

Override brake couplings need to have fresh, clean grease applied every once in a while.

Hydraulic systems need their fluid flushed out every two years, if not before.

Look after your brakes and they will look after you. Them's the brakes.