Cape York can be tackled in a variety of ways, from full-on, extreme 4WD tracks to the corrugated main road. There are strict grog-control laws in force in the Cape York area, so it’s important to be up to date on alcohol-carrying restrictions before you depart Cairns.
Those who have experience of Cape York road conditions will be amazed by today’s surface, which is generally good all the way to Weipa.
The formerly rough stony river crossing at Archer River is now a raised causeway and the Wenlock River crossing is done by driving over the high-level concrete Mulundudji Bridge.
However, the Old Telegraph Track north of Bramwell Station is still quite testing.
From Cairns the most popular 4WD route is via Cape Tribulation, historic Cooktown, Old Laura Station and Lakefield National Park.
Just north of Archer River you can take the Lockhart River turnoff and visit the Batavia Gold Mine ruins. Most Cape York visitors stock up on fuel and supplies in Weipa and enjoy the excellent camp ground.
The next stop is Bramwell Station, where it’s possible to stay overnight in a cabin or camp, before fuelling up at the Station’s pumps at the junction of the Telegraph and Bypass roads.
On the Telegraph Road the next destination is the campsite at the Dulhunty River, which offers safe dunking in natural spa baths at rocky overflows.
From the Dulhunty it’s possible to drive over the near-vertical bank drop at Gunshot Creek, but many a vehicle has suffered severe damage at this spot. An alternative route is the Bypass Road, which leads to the side-trip turnoff to Captain Billy Landing.
The next stops are the safe swimming holes on Eliot Creek – Fruit Bat Falls and Twin Falls – then a camp at the Champagne Pools on Canal Creek. Getting through the clay creeks and ponds will keep you focussed in the morning.
The next challenge on the Telegraph Road is Cannibal Creek, where the water crossing is easy enough, but the climb on the northern side is up a steep, slippery clay bank that’s sculpted by the water flows every Wet Season.
Teamwork is needed at Cypress Creek. This steeply-banked stream is spanned by a makeshift log bridge that needs rebuilding at the start of – and during – every season. It’s normal to spend half an hour moving logs around before you can get across.
After the bridge rebuilding work at Cypress Creek it’s pleasant to arrive at Nolan’s Brook half an hour later, for a dip in the clear water. This water crossing is often quite deep, so while you’re enjoying a dip it’s wise to check out the shallowest path to drive through.
From here it’s an easy run to the main road, where you can check out the east coast of The Cape, by taking a side trip along the Vrilya Point track. Otherwise, do a northbound run to the Jardine Ferry and soon enjoy the hot showers in the Seisia Holiday Park camp ground.
At the far top end the historic Somerset Homestead ruins are a must see, followed by the mandatory walk to The Tip of Australia.
You can make the Somerset journey more interesting by doing the beachfront run from Nanthau.