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Allan Whiting22 Dec 2010
FEATURE

Top-7 off-road destinations: Canning Stock Route

If you're serious about off-roading in Australia, these are the regions to put on your ‘bucket list'. All require a 4WD with high ground clearance and the right accessories and preparation


This is the 1800km Big One that requires experience gained from less demanding remote area trips. The Canning is best tackled in an organised convoy, preferably headed by someone who’s done the trek before.

Permits are required for some sections of the track and even then, areas such as the Calvert range are off limits until further notice. Damage to sites at the spectacularly decorated Calvert Range has led the local Aboriginal people to bar access.

It’s likely that the beautiful site at Durba Springs will also be a no-go zone if visitors don’t stop doing stupid things, like washing cars near the precious waterhole.

The Canning Stock Route was developed as a route for Kimberley cattle to reach southern West Australian markets and the 51 wells were completed in 1910, at more or less typical droving day intervals, in conjunction with existing native wells.

The Route was used by only a few mobs of cattle and the wells fell into disrepair, before being refurbished during World War II, in case an evacuation of Australia’s north-west region was warranted. The wells deteriorated once more, but some have since been restored by 4WD groups.

Weather plays its part in restricting a full Canning Stock Route traverse; particularly in recent years, with very heavy rains during the northern Wet Season.

The Lake Gregory section, south of Billiluna, has become an almost permanent bog hole and, as a result, many travellers have done part-Canning runs.

A great contributor to easier Canning trips is the fuel depot at Kunawarritji, near Well 33.

An excellent part-Canning involves a westwards drive from Alice Springs, along the Gary Junction Road, via fuel stops at Kintore, Kiwirrkurra and Kunawarritji.

From there it’s possible to head north up the Canning to Billiluna (weather permitting), or south to the Talawana Track.

Two options at this Well 24 intersection are an east run to the Gary ‘Highway’ – a bush track south to the Gunbarrel – or a westbound drive along the Talawana.

There’s a picturesque track north from the Talawana through Rudall River National Park that traverses magnificent mesa country en route to the Telfer Mine Road that leads east to Marble Bar.

A third option from Well 24 is to remain on the Canning and head south, visiting Durba Springs en route (permit required from the Western Deserts Aboriginal Lands Council).

Another way to visit this section is to drive east from Newman on the Talawana and return via the rugged Puntawarri Track, or keep heading south on the Canning.

South of Well 9 the Canning becomes less interesting, so many travellers choose to exit via the private road (fee payable) through Glenayle Station and join the Gunbarrel just west of Carnegie, where there’s fuel available.


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Written byAllan Whiting
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