Tech Talk: Caravan Clinic

When 3500kg is not enough
Need to tow more than 3500kg? Up to now short of buying a big truck there weren’t too many options. However, there is now an alternative. Since the current model Ford F250 was released it has had a tow rating of 4500kg, but there wasn’t a towbar on the market that equalled this capacity.

Hayman Reese has recently released a 4500kg hitch receiver that allows Ford F-Series owners to obtain the maximum from their vehicle. There are, however, a few precautions that need to be considered. As standard 50mm towballs are rated to 3500kg, and it is necessary to use a 70mm towball. And of course the trailer coupling has to match.

To be able to cope with correspondingly higher ball loads, a 450kg weight-distribution hitch is required. As this is a much stronger unit than the 250kg and 350kg hitches, it is not just a matter of buying a couple of new spring bars.

While we acknowledge that very few would want to tow more than 3500kg, there are people who buy a Ford F250 or F350 vehicle with an aim to tow big loads. It is nice to know that there is now a way of doing this safely. For more details check out www.haymanreese.com.au

Water quality
Q We are considering replacing our 1994 van and have looked at a couple with shower and toilet. As we stop mainly in caravan parks, a shower and toilet is not a necessity but would be useful if there were a health concern, as has happened in Qld parks where we have stayed.

I’m thinking that I should have a water filtration system but am getting conflicting comments from those who should know. What do you advise we need to treat our water, keeping in mind that we have not had any problems in the past?
Peter White
Seaford, Vic

A Isn’t it amazing how we manage to do without something for a year and suddenly we are told we may need it. I recently read that we are now becoming so intolerant to everything around us because so much is over-sanitised and our body has forgotten how to cope with anything out of the ordinary.

As we can’t always be sure about water quality, I guess something that removes the nasties may be beneficial. It is worth remembering that there are filters and purifiers.

As someone once said to me, filters take out the big lumps and make the water look and taste good. Purifiers on the other hand remove pathogenic cysts like giardia, disease bacteria, viruses, contaminants like pesticides, herbicides and toxic chemicals, dirt and sediment and also foul tastes, odours and colours.

It comes down to what your needs are – filters are cheaper to purchase than purifiers. When comparing one against another check out what it is the filter/purifier actually takes care of. And also compare the costs of replacement filter cartridges and any other maintenance.

Territory gear change
In CW’s Ford Territory tow test report (March 2005) we mentioned that the transmission could be put in either a fully automatic or manual mode. Charlie Gale from Moe, Vic, pointed out that it was also possible to use the transmission as a three-speed automatic.

If, when going along in drive, the gear lever is moved sideways into the manual gate, the display will show that it is in third gear. In fact it will now operate as a three-speed auto, changing down and up to suit road and operating conditions. The moment the gear lever is now moved forward or backward to select a lower or higher gear, it becomes a ‘manual’ transmission. This means that while it will then change to a lower gear as road speed decreases, the transmission will not change up unless the driver moves the lever. Thanks for putting us in the right gear, Charlie!

Fridge woes
Long-time reader and avid caravanner Fred Waller has sent us several letters regarding the less-than-satisfactory operation of his three-way caravan fridge. Originally it appears that the unit may not have been installed according to the installation instructions.

Fred had been advised that the top vent was too low and that gaps existed around the fridge cabinet. The gaps were eliminated with pieces of polystyrene foam.

As it is not possible to simply move the top vent higher, a third vent was put in above the existing top one. Two deflectors were added: one to ensure the air coming in the bottom flowed all the way to the top and not out of the original vent; the second above the cabinet to guide the air out as recommended in the installation manual.

For good measure a small 12V fan was added to further improve airflow.

Although these modifications must have helped a little, Fred found that at best the fridge’s internal cabinet temperature was 20° Celsius below ambient. When, on another occasion, the unit stopped cooling completely, it was discovered that the thermostat had called it a day. Upon checking the gas system, it was found that only the pilot flame would burn.

Further investigation revealed an excess amount of sealant inside the gas pipe. According to Fred, the dealer didn’t want to know, and Fred was very unhappy.

He wrote to Dometic and was informed that as the fridge was now more than 12 months old, it was out of warranty. When Caravan World spoke to Dometic to get the other side of the story, we were told that Dometic had offered to have one of its authorised service agents look at Fred’s fridge, ideally where it could be tested in a ‘hot room’, but he hadn’t taken up this offer.

In his most recent letter, Fred mentioned that he relies mainly on a portable Waeco and EvaKool fridge/freezer to keep supplies cold or frozen while on the road.

A situation like this raises several issues. One is that of distance and mobility. In the case of caravanners, many find themselves away from home as well as away from help when a problem arises.

While a dealer or supplier may have service agents located around the country, Murphy often makes sure that these are some distance away when a breakdown occurs.

A second issue is that of elapsed time. Fred makes the point, and a valid one, that in the case of RVs many owners, at the time of purchase, reside in the cooler parts of the country. Some may own a unit for a couple of years before venturing further afield.

And when they do head north, particularly at the hotter time of the year, they may discover a problem that has existed since new but hadn’t previously shown up because of milder conditions.

Then there is also the third matter of warranty. Consumer laws generally deem the person/business who sold a product to be responsible for any warranty arising out of poor workmanship or poor materials.

When a product is sold with, for example, a one-year written warranty or guarantee, this comes under the heading of Voluntary or Express Warranties. What is not always known is the existence of Statutory or Implied Warranties. Under the Trade Practices Act the latter apply, irrespective of what is offered by way of Voluntary Warranties.

While there are no set time limits associated with Statutory Warranties, one has to keep in mind the life expectancy and intended use of the product.

So what does all this mean? If there is a problem with poor performance during the stated or written warranty period there usually isn’t (or shouldn’t be) too many concerns about getting this attended to. However, if after this period there is still clear evidence of inferior workmanship or materials leading to a malfunction, the seller and/or manufacturer may still have to rectify the problem.

In an effort to reduce impasses as the one illustrated by Fred’s fridge problem, we can only urge RV owners to use their unit as much, and as soon, as possible. And when something doesn’t seem quite right, bring it to the attention of the dealer as soon as is practical.

While the selling dealer is primarily responsible for attending to the problem, there are times when it may be easier to contact the product manufacturer to ascertain the most expedient way of resolving the issue.

Brakes and bearings
Q Three years ago I bought a 5.1m single-axle caravan that weighed 1800kg loaded and which I towed with a Ford Falcon. The Prodigy brake controller was set at 6.5 volts (V) to give the desired trailer braking.

As I was concerned about the size of the van we changed to a 4.5m, 1500kg van. On the first trip the controller output had to be increased to 10-11V for good braking. I discovered that one wheel was much hotter than the other.

When checked, it was discovered that the assembly which had been ‘cold’ was smothered in wheel bearing grease. Everything was cleaned and re-assembled, however, on the next trip it still needed 10-11V from the controller. The previous over-greased wheel was still not doing its share of the braking.

After much checking of the electrical circuit it was decided to replace the brake shoes that had been affected by the grease. This fixed the problem and the controller output could now be reduced.

As the uneven braking was not apparent from the driver’s seat, I’d recommend that people occasionally feel the brake drum temperature after a brisk stop, being careful not to burn fingers. I’d also recommend balancing the caravan wheels and tyres to prevent damage to the brake magnets and stop things shaking about inside the van.
Alf Obersby
Newborough, Vic

A You have certainly highlighted a number of concerns, Alf. I wonder who overfilled the hub with grease – was it the original assembler or did the person who carried out the
pre-delivery service add a bit for good measure?

As most of the space inside the hub is taken up by the stub axle, only a small amount of grease is needed. Cleaning grease, oil or brake fluid from brake linings should be seen as a temporary measure.

As you discovered, it is almost impossible to remove all the contaminants from the friction material.

I’m not sure that I’d go as far as recommending that owners feel the brake drums, due to the likelihood of fingers being burnt. Uneven braking should be noticeable – it may be that you always brake gently. When testing brake performance or controller settings, it is a good idea to simulate an open road emergency stop from normal towing speeds. Remember smooth braking at low speeds doesn’t always translate into effective braking at high speeds.

And you’re right – caravan wheels and tyres should be balanced. An imbalance may not show up until you drive at 80km/h or more and can’t always be noticed by the driver. However, such an imbalance can do a lot of damage as a result of the vibrations created.

Onsite levelling
Q Often it is necessary to raise one side of the van to make the annexe sit properly on the slab.

I have been wondering if there is something that can be bolted on the outside of the wheel to allow the van to be jacked up and levelled without the need to crawl underneath. Sometimes the area where the wheel is has a deep depression, making it even more difficult to get a jack under the van.
Rick Kello
Murwillumbah, NSW

A Jacking a van up on site to level it would be about the last thing you want to do. The first step should be to install a small bubble-type level on the drawbar or on the van front. This will gauge whether the site is level from side to side. If there is a slope, I would opt to put a piece of wood under the tyre to raise the wheel.

Alternatively there are plastic ‘wedges’ or levelling blocks available from caravan accessory outlets that can be placed in front or behind the tyre.

In either case you would level the van while it was still attached to the car so you can pull the wheel onto whatever type of spacer you use.

If you want to follow up on your jacking idea, Maytow Caravan Accessories has a bolt-on jacking bracket called JackMayt.

To have a closer look at this bracket, visit www.maytow.com and click on ‘Accessories’, then select ‘Jacking & stabilising’. Alternatively call Maytow on 1300 629 869.