Spotlight: Mt Eccles, Victoria

It’s an eerie feeling looking across the landscape from Harman’s Valley Lookout to Mount Napier, one of Victoria’s most recent active volcanoes.

Twenty thousand years ago volcanic eruptions blasted lava high into the air, searing the surrounding landscape with hot molten lava, creating unique volcanic formations.

The volcanic plains of Victoria are around 100km wide and stretch from Melbourne to just shy of the South Australian border, with a few volcanoes dotted around Mount Gambier. Hundreds of volcanoes have been identified across the area, many on public land which are open for visitors to explore.

Mount Eccles is a dormant volcano and sits on seven volcanic vents. Other volcanic formations include lava flows, lava caves, scoria cones and crater lakes.

Following the Native Title determination, the park is now jointly managed by Parks Victoria and the Gunditjmara Traditional Owners, Victoria’s first co-managed park, and there are a range of cultural experiences on offer. 

Run by Budj Bim Tours, they include a tour of the Indigenous Protected Area and related interests. All tours starts at the Budj Bim Orientation Centre in Heywood with prices starting from $40 per person.

Camping in national parks is one of my favourite pastimes. Unlike free camping areas, which often appear more like a carpark than a camping area, national parks are managed for conservation as well as recreation, meaning camp sites are strictly limited.

This helps preserve the impact on the environment and gives visitors a better opportunity to observe wildlife in their natural habitat. But it does come at a cost, particularly when the area has unique appeal, like Mount Eccles.

As such, the park is classified as a high permit category. In addition to the common features such as information displays and long drop toilets, it offers shared fire pits, picnic tables, some hot showers, flushing toilets, regular ranger patrols, designated camping sites and untreated drinking water.

There's also a picnic area with shaded gas barbecues, tables and seats, a large grassed area and plenty of parking. Pricing has been reviewed in recent years to more accurately reflect the level of facilities and services provided while keeping it at a level to encourage families to enjoy the great outdoors.

At $50/night per vehicle for up to six people the value is geared to family groups rather than single travellers or couples. Shoulder and off peak seasons attract a 5-10% discount which still leaves pricing at the upper end for bush camping.

Still, if you’re an outdoor enthusiast, you’ll appreciate everything on offer in this unique location.

The camping area is accessed via a driving circuit with 22 sites tucked into the scrub at various points. Of these, 21 are available for general camping, with the last site reserved for school groups.

The sites vary in size so you need to choose carefully, particularly if you have a caravan or camper trailer with a large tent. With the advent of online bookings rather than the tried and tested self-registration system, online bookings must be processed and paid for in advance.

If you don’t have internet access you can call 131963 seven days a week. The camping area is suitable for disabled people.

Ant holes are plentiful in the camping area, so pay some attention where you pitch the tent. If camping in a caravan or camper trailer, run some talcum powder around anything touching the ground such as tyres, support legs and the jockey wheel. The ants won’t cross the powder, so prevents turning your home into their home.

Other creepy crawlies include leeches which can be found in the damp areas. Dress accordingly and make regular inspections, particularly of children.

The campground is home to plenty of wildlife. Eastern Grey kangaroos are frequently seen languishing in vacant campsites.

The national park is also home to the largest stand of manna gums in Victoria, a favourite for local koalas. As such, there's an abundance of our furry friends, just remember to look up occasionally to spot them.

They can often be heard at night, grunting like little pigs, which can be a little disconcerting for first-timers.

Don’t get too friendly with the possums or be tempted to feed them (or other wildlife) as they could well commandeer your van. They make the worst tenants and can be very tricky to evict!

There are plenty of birds to admire. Sixty eight bird species have been identified in the park including falcons, parrots, wrens and more. Check the visitors guide for the full listing.

Bushwalkers are well catered for with easy access from the campground. This includes the Natural Bridge, Crater Rim Walk, Lake Surprise and the Lava Canal.

The Natural Bridge follows a lava canal which moved at such a turbulent rate it built high levee banks which eventually curled and caved in to create the bridge. The canal leads from the volcanic crater to the Natural Bridge before stepping down into a cave.

Tracks navigate to other areas of the park that are open to vehicles, foot traffic or mountain bikes. Of those, the Budj Bim trail was set up specifically for mountain bike riders.

It covers the culturally managed land between Murphy’s Hut, Allambie and Lake Gorrie, and can be completed in one day or for those who prefer a more leisurely pace, there are camps along the way and it can be completed in a 3-day stretch. Bookings are essential.

Signs from the national park direct you to other volcanic features including the Tumuli Lava blisters that can be found nearby on Old Crusher Road. The formation has international significance, being only one of three sites in the world!

Located on private land although access is permitted, the blisters resemble large piles of rocks (volcanic) which have been pushed up by the pressure of liquid lava beneath a thin crust. The grass can be long so take appropriate precautions.

Historic stone walls are prevalent in the area and date back to the pioneering settlement. They were used to contain stock, define boundaries and help in some way to manage the rabbit plague.

MOUNT NAPIER STATE PARK

Mount Napier State Park is also worth a day trip, with some of the key features including the Byaduk Caves, Forest drive and the Summit walk.

The Byaduk Caves are part of the lava flow from Mount Napier, and a short walking circuit explores sink holes, caves, a natural bridge and historic stone walls with interpretive signage along the way.

Of the caves, Harmans 1 can be explored on foot for high mobility individuals. It requires clambering down a rocky embankment for access, so you’ll need appropriate footwear and a torch to explore the beyond the natural illumination.

The caves are claimed to be the most extensive and accessible lava caves in Victoria where you can admire stalactites and stalagmites, wrinkles, columns and ropy lava.

Bent-wing bats are known to inhabit these areas but they don’t take a shining to bright lights and noise, so respect their habitat and keep noise and light to a minimum. Harmans 2 can only be observed from the circuit trail.

The Forest Drive along Menzies Pit Track carves through woodlands carpeted with ferns. The tranquillity will appeal to those who like to get amongst the fresh forest air without wandering too far from the vehicle, and there are areas where you can see samples of scoria rock.

The track is unsealed in parts but suitable for conventional vehicles.

The Summit Walk is an hour return and cuts through head high thistles. Although we didn’t take the climb, the views are claimed to be impressive, stretching from the Grampians to the sea with volcanic features to admire along the way.

MOUNT GAMBIER

Over the border into South Australia and the volcanic activity continues. Mount Schank is the youngest volcano in the state with around 5000 years since its last eruption. As with the neighbouring volcanic areas, there are walking tracks and scenic lookouts to admire the surrounding landscape. There's also a picnic area.

Other local volcanic attractions include the Umpherston Sinkhole and the Blue Lake Crater.

The Umpherston Sinkhole was originally a limestone cave. Over time the roof collapsed and it was replaced by a beautiful terraced garden. A series of ramps and steps leads to the bottom of the garden, with each level providing a new vantage point to admire the scenery.

The Blue Lake is another recent geological formation. Evidence of the volcanic activity includes the limestone layer just above the water line and a dark basalt layer just above that. If the detail escapes you, just peer down into the magnificent deep blue hues of the Blue Lake.

It's hard not to be drawn into the beauty of the geological formations along the Volcanic Plains. It's a wonderful area to explore on foot, mountain bike or vehicle.

Mount Eccles National Park is the jewel in the crown, offering a range of services rarely found in such a naturally beautiful setting. Add to that the indigenous history and encompassing wildlife and it’s an ideal holiday for those who love exploring the great outdoors.