RV conversions: doing it yourself

By Malcolm Street

It’s a fact that many of the superb campervans and motorhomes around today are very expensive. It’s also a fact that there are many people who would like to join the campervan/motorhome lifestyle but are unable to do so because of the initial high cost of a new campervan/motorhome. Even if you are considering a pre-loved RV, these are a unique part of the motor industry because they generally retain their value.

Taking all those facts as they are, it would appear that there is little prospect of getting your own campervan or motorhome if the budget’s tight. Well, almost – there are a couple of possibilities.

One is to buy an ex-rental campervan/motorhome, which are generally cheaper than privately-owned second-hand rigs but come with the disadvantages of having been driven round the block a number of times, and built to a price in the first place. If you are into some basic DIY, these certainly offer themselves as a refurbishment prospect.

Another option is to do up your own campervan/motorhome. Since most people probably don’t have the necessary skills or patience to tackle a full coach-built motorhome, the other possibilities are a Toyota Coaster/Nissan Civilian bus conversion or a light commercial van conversion. We’ll be looking at the latter in this article, in particular the most effective way to obtain a suitable base vehicle.

A self-built campervan, with a little bit of professional help, is well within the scope of skilled DIYers. The principal advantage, especially with a high-top van, is that little external work has to be done. As long as the vehicle is registered, it leaves you with a something to drive around in.

Before embarking on your dream campervan, there are a few warnings to consider. All gas fitting and 240V electrical work must be done by licensed tradesmen. These are not totally insurmountable items: by fitting a denatured alcohol (methylated) cooktop and a 12V fridge, no gas system will be required. Fittings of 240V can be kept to a minimum just by having a battery charger (most people will need one of these) and maybe a microwave oven connection.

Any fittings like extra seats and seat belts should certainly be done by competent persons and would have to be signed off by a certified motor engineer.

Where to start

Before buying your campervan conversion prospect, research is your first port of call. Look at other campervan conversions to see how manufacturers and home builders utilise the space within the vans they fit out.

Whether buying a new or second-hand van, it’s a good idea to look into the reliability of the van you are considering. It would be a pity to spend countless hours and money on your conversion dream, only to have it constantly break down or have expensive parts to pay for.

Carefully consider the type of van you wish to buy. There are several companies around which do sell components for campervans. Some will even make up all the cabinetwork, so that all you have to do is fit it – a good idea if timber cabinetwork is not your strong point.

If you are thinking of buying a pop-top, it’s prudent to check that a suitable roof is available from a supplier. Cutting a large hole in a van roof is definitely something to be done by a specialist.

Next, ask yourself what you want from your dream campervan: What size vehicle will suit your needs? What colour would you like? Don’t get too excited about the latter – in the light commercial van world, the Henry Ford principle is alive and well. You can have any colour you like, as long as it’s a shade of white, unless you are prepared to wait about six months or so.

Interested in a van with a flat floor and a walk-through? Think European: VW, Mercedes-Benz, Fiat Ducato and Iveco. Japanese (Toyota HiAce) and Korean (Kia Pregio) vans do not have those features because of their engine location. They also tend to be narrower than their European counterparts, too. Admittedly it’s only about 8in (203mm) or so, but in a campervan that’s a vast amount of space and can mean having a bed across the van rather than lengthways.

The advantage of Asian vans is that they are generally cheaper than European ones but internal space is given careful consideration, especially the width between the rear wheel arches and the usable cargo area length. More money spent earlier may save in the long run and result in a much more comfortable end product.

Windows are also a factor to think about. Consider your layout and the windows you might want. It’s going to be considerably cheaper if you can get the right window configuration up front. There are window installers around and it’s sensible to check if you can get suitable aftermarket windows.

Another chiefly expensive item, swivel seats are only available for flat floor vans, but if used correctly, they are a major space-saver. Swivel seats should certainly comply with all the relevant ADRs.

The big buy

After completing your research, the next step is to acquire a van. Naturally if it’s a new one you’re after, it’s a matter of visiting all the appropriate dealers and getting the best price. In the second-hand market, there are several options from which to choose.

The most obvious is a second-hand dealer. This is probably the most expensive way, but it might save you time and you will get a warranty of some sort. There are some dealers, like Sydney’s The Van Man, which sell only vans, so there’s a good selection of units in the one place.

Bid at your own risk

A third option for buying a used van is at an auction. A company like Pickles regularly sells ex-government vehicles in all the major cities. These may not appeal to everyone, but often they have been regularly serviced and in some cases have low kilometres.

Buying a vehicle this way is generally cheaper than from a dealer (mainly because that is where dealers obtain their stock in the first place) but there are no warranties. There is also no test drive and a limited time for inspection – engine starting only.

Buying a vehicle through auction requires the most research: you must know your prospective vehicle very well, especially any common faults with it, because there is usually only a visual inspection allowed.

A visit to a vehicle auction can be interesting – Pickles, for one, has an auction at least one day per week. Usually the Saturday motoring section of the major papers will give auction details, as will auction company websites, which give specific vehicle details.

If planning on bidding at auction you have to register (it’s free) and get a number. The other helpful item is a catalogue, which you have to purchase. Pre-auction inspections are usually available several hours prior and sometimes the day before. If you intend to buy, a cash deposit is required upfront, with the balance required the next day.

At an auction, things move quickly, so it’s best to pay careful attention. If you have never been to one before, attend a few (without buying) to get a feel for how it operates and what sort of prices are being paid. Pickles puts out a monthly publication with details of prices that have been paid.

Once you have decided to bid, make sure the auctioneer sees your first bid. After that he/she or one of the assistants will watch you carefully as the bidding goes along.

Don’t get too excited during the bidding process. Know your financial limit and know roughly what you would pay for a similar vehicle from a dealer – it’s pointless to pay the same amount and receive no warranty. If your bid is accepted then you will be approached by a clerk immediately for your deposit, for which you’ll receive a receipt and the van will be yours!

Stay focused

That is about as far as van acquisition is concerned. At the same time as your van buying process is proceeding, component sourcing should also be happening. You should also be getting quotes for all the work that you are not planning to do yourself. Help yourself by having some sort of planning schedule worked out and an end date in view, otherwise your dream project will just drag on and you’ll lose interest. Happy converting!