Rolling to the Rock: Day 16

East or west?

That’s the dilemma facing many Red Centre visitors on tighter schedules – whether to be spend time exploring the more popular West or equally spectacular East McDonnell Ranges.

Both are easy day trips from Alice Springs, but while we spent two more nights at the busy Glen Helen Resort in the 'West' (see Day 12), we could just have happily spent the time in the tree-lined tranquility of the 'East Macs'.

Our ‘home’ for one night in the East McDonnell Ranges was the peaceful, grassy campground at the Ross River Homestead, which dates back to the early 20th century as a horse and cattle breeding station but has been accommodating tourists since the late 1950s.

It’s an 83km drive down a sealed road from Alice Springs, but as soon as we entered the secluded property with its tree-lined drive-away, quaint old homestead with manicured front lawn and uncluttered campground dotted with towering ghost gums, we knew we were on a winner.

The relaxed, family-run property has a pool, bunk house, community hall and spacious ablutions block, as well as two friendly dogs – Tiger and Thor – which proved a big hit with the kids.
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The well-preserved homestead, with its antique furniture, photos and artifacts, provides a glimpse into how the early pioneers lived, as well as offering an inviting outback-style bar and bistro, roaring fire and couches.

Dinner options are limited to a set menu, but it's an intimate affair where you dine with the family and staff in one of the old-style dining rooms.

The resort is a short drive from one of the highlights of the East Macs, the Trephina Gorge. With the kids suffering from bushwalk fatigue, we undertook the easy but picturesque, one hour gorge and panorama walk.

It's worthwhile stopping off on the drive in at the moving roadside memorial to a fallen motorcycle rider, as well as the signposted detour to a magnificent 300-year old ghost gum.

The Arltunga Historical Reserve is another 40km drive away, on an unsealed track, where you’ll find remnants of central Australia’s first official town built up around the early gold mining rush.

The Ross River Resort also provides access to N’Dhala Gorge with its 5900 ancient rock carvings, although a deep water crossing and boggy 11km acess track meant our Kia Sorento didn’t attempt the trip.

However, at just $30 for a powered site, lush outback surrounds and far fewer people than at Glen Helen in the West, one night was never going to be enough at the Ross River Resort.