How to buy a used caravan

Second-hand caravans tend to hold their value exceptionally well; being able to sell your van for the same price as it was new or more was quite common a few years ago.

More recently, as demand sky-rocketed during COVID lockdowns, it was quite usual for prices of used vans to exceed their new retail price by many thousands as order lists for new vans stretched out.

But with so many new caravans to choose from on the market these days, used vans should generally see their values pare back.

Check the online classifieds and you might find it hard to see a pattern to prices at first. However, one thing you will find is that – generally speaking – you’ll pay more for a bigger van or one from a well-known brand.

Condition and features can also have a big influence on prices.

To give you a rough idea of what you should spend, around $5000 gets you into a 1970s-‘80s van that might be a bit tired and that only has basic features but is still in serviceable condition. It’s unlikely you’ll get a you-beaut, retro-fit solar system or shower/toilet in such a van, but a canvas annexe might be part of the deal.

Bump up your spend to around the $10K mark, and you’ll have your pick of vans from 1980s to the early 2000s. At this point, you’ll also see older vans that have been fitted with a few updates such as a roll-out awning or perhaps a 12V battery and solar set-up.

If you’re willing to fork out around $15,000-$20,000, you’ll start to see some fresher vans from the early 2000s-on, that are well-featured and in decent condition. You probably won’t see a 25ft tandem, chock-full of features such as shower/toilet, air-conditioning and a high-tech 12V system, but you will start to see some of these features, especially in smaller vans.

Spend around $25K and you’ll start to get features like air-conditioning, a 12V system and shower/toilet in something like a 20ft tandem.

With $30K burning a hole in your pocket (enough for an entry-level new van), you’ll be able to shop for a tandem-axle van with all the fruit that shouldn’t be more than 10 years old.

Price isn’t everything

When scouring the online classifieds, don’t let what appears to be a bargain blind you to the possibility that it’s a dodgy deal.

While less likely on a reputable website like Caravancampingsales, some cove might’ve grabbed the photos and info from a legitimate ad elsewhere and then advertised it at a bargain price.

More often than not, there isn’t a phone number listed with the ad, only an email contact. If you can’t talk to the seller at the very least (viewing the van for sale is even better for peace of mind), walk away.

The other trap to avoid is buying a caravan from some-one who has bought the van at a damaged vehicle auction and repaired it. If you know it has been repaired and you’re certain it was done properly, then go ahead – although you’ll want to get it at a good price, because the van’s resale value will be lower.

You should always do a full registration/PPSR check for any purchase (assuming it has plates and is or has recently been registered) and if the van has been sold at auction as a repairable write-off, it should be noted by the authorities.

Caravan dealers offer peace of mind with title protection, sometimes a warranty and they usually sort out any problems with the van prior to putting it on the lot.

You’ll often pay more at a dealer than with a private sale, but it pays to get a feel for values. A dealer may have bought the van for very little and wants to move it on and may price the van very competitively.

Pre-purchase checklist

When you’re ready to go look at vans, the first thing you should look for is moisture/water damage. This is the most common problem with used vans, in particular aluminium-clad vans.

While this will cause most headaches with timber-frame vans, even aluminium frame vans can suffer from rotted interior lining and cabinetry if the van has been leaking.

You won’t easily tell if the rot has only gone as far as the timber frame, but often it will spread to the interior walls and cabinetry. Look closely at the walls and inside cabinets for staining or if there’s a strong musty smell in the van – they’re pretty good signs that the van may have had or has a leak.

Any older van that has not been pampered is likely to have some water damage, but if the source of the leak wasn’t fixed quickly, it can lead to a pricey repair.

Also, grab a ladder and have a good look on top of the van. Minor creases on front and rear roof sections are not all that unusual (from impact damage from low branches, for example) and if there’s hail damage, it’ll be most obvious on the flat roof panels – and the price should reflect that the van has the damage.

Another thing to look for is deteriorated joint sealant, which could suggest leaks are about to or have occurred. If you see clear silastic used, it’s not a good sign, as it’s likely an acetic sealant and will eat into the aluminium.

You should also check down the sides and front and rear of the van for lifting sealant; leaks here may do less damage than a leak up top, but it could still end up causing expensive-to-fix wood rot.

Get your bearings

Wheel bearings are not expensive to replace but it’s good to know what state they’re in – if they’re loose it’s indicative of poor maintenance.

Grip each of the caravan’s wheels and rock it forwards and back (as you face the wheel) and listen and feel for any knocking or looseness, which can suggest a damaged and /or loose wheel bearing.

While down at the wheels, look underneath for chassis cracks, split or water damaged plywood flooring or timber-frame damage. Have a look at electrical wiring, gas and water lines and the water tank to see that they are secure and complete.

An out-of-date LP gas cylinder is hardly a deal-breaker, but check its inspection date. LP cylinders must be inspected within 10 years of the last inspection.

There’s not much you can do about checking brakes without at least towing the van or pulling off the brake drums. Check the handbrake cables to make sure they’re not frayed and that there appears to be adequate tension on the cables when the handbrake is on.

From the late-1980s caravans were fitted with a compliance plate, typically in the front boot, inside the door or on the A-frame, so make sure that the VIN number corresponds with that on the rego papers, and that the wheel and tyre sizes also correspond with what is fitted to the van.

Also make sure the tyres don’t have cracked sidewalls – a sure sign they’ve perished and will need replacement.

It’s also worth checking the boot, door and other locks have corresponding keys and that all cupboard latches, window locks and window winders operate.

Turn on the fridge, give it 10 minutes and see if the freezer section has become cold – if not, the fridge might need repairs. Remember that absorption fridges need to be used on a level surface or they won’t cool properly. Also check all the other 12v and 240v equipment works.

In the end, it’s easy to get caught up with the prospect of a new ‘used’ caravan but if you follow these steps -- or get a professional or specialist to look over a van for you -- you’ll have a good chance of a happy, post-purchase experience.

You can also find many more tips on the Caravancampingsale Buyers Advice page located here.

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