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Chris Fincham25 Sept 2017
NEWS

FROM BOTTOM TO TOP: Devil’s Marbles

It’s a must-stop on the Stuart Hwy but get there early for a camping spot
On a previous trip to the Red Centre, the furthest north I’d been on the Stuart Highway was about 100km from Alice Springs, to the turn-off to the Gemtree caravan park.
This time, I was heading into uncharted waters and looking forward to my next overnight stop at the Devil’s Marbles campground.
Having spent a fair bit of time around Uluru and the East and West MacDonnell Ranges, I’ve seen my share of stunning red rock backdrops. So I wasn’t expecting too much from this very unusual geological phenomena, located just off the Stuart Hwy about 400km from Alice Springs.
However, my expectations were quickly surpassed… This is a magical place to wonder through and a rare chance to camp right at the base of the rock formations. However, it seems everybody else has the same idea and luckily I grab one of the last unpowered sites in the rustic campground at around 3pm, as other caravanners are forced to turn around, disappointed.
And it’s important to stay the night so you can experience both the sunset and sunrise, where the low light turns the rocks into glowing red lava lamps – like mini versions of Uluru around dusk.
Even better is to do some of the short walks through the site of ever-changing giant boulders, wondering how time and weather has caused large round rocks to split down the middle, like a giant has attacked them with an axe. Or how a smooth boulder balances on top of another, like a front-end loader has placed it there and cemented it in place stop it rolling!
With daytime temperatures now well into the thirties, any thoughts of the chilly Melbourne spring are erased by the tranquility of a glowing Outback sunset, lounging back on the camp chair with sizzling steak on the barbie and coldie in hand...
For something a little bit more bizarre and man-made, I stop just before the Marbles for fuel at the Wycliffe Well Roadhouse, the self-proclaimed UFO capital of the world. I didn’t stick around to find out if the regular sightings are 'fact or fiction', and wasn’t about to argue with the green martians out front as I put another $150 of diesel into the big ‘Cruiser…
Those interested in a bit of settler history will also want to spend some time at Barrow Creek, where one of the last standing stations from the Overland Telegraph Line that ran from Port Augusta to Darwin remain. The white painted buildings were erected in 1872 and remain in relatively good nick.

Once again, I have the place almost to myself to ponder the hardships of 'white folk' trying to make a living in this harsh environment...

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Written byChris Fincham
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