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NEWS
FROM BOTTOM TO TOP: Banka Banka
Big spiders, quirky Outback pubs and a taste of Indigenous culture…Did you know the Stuart Highway was not fully sealed until the 1980s? So before then the never-ending, mostly straight and flat stretch of road that cuts through the middle of Australia between Port Augusta and Darwin, and was named after Scottish explorer John MacDouall Stuart, had more than a few bumps and creek crossings.
These days, you could comfortably pilot an F1 car up ‘The Track’ it’s so smooth, and legally dash up the 2834km stretch of 130km/h signposted bitumen in 21 hours, or two days.
We’re doing it at a more leisurely 95-100km/h, with the big LandCruiser lazily hauling the 2300kg New Age van like there’s little behind…
After a restful night at the ‘Marbles, we continue north another 100km to Tennant Creek, the only major town between Alice Springs and Katherine, another 674km north. With both the tanks and fridge full, I only stop for a couple of hours at the excellent Nyinkka Nyunyu Aboriginal art and culture centre right on the main road.
Unlike more sanatised Aboriginal ‘museums’, this one has a warts and all display of life for the 'first' people before and after settlement, telling the stories with traditional objects, contemporary and bush medicine displays.
The fascinating audio tour continues outside in the bush garden, which includes the sacred site of the Nyinkka spiky-tailed goanna. Unfortunately the café is closed for renovation, so I retreat to the Gecko van for some sandwiches and percolated coffee before travelling another 100km north and turning into Banka Banka Station for the night.
Banka Banka was the first pastoral lease in the NT and today the cattle station runs a terrific little bush campground, with squeaky clean ablution block, drinking water, camp kitchen, kiosk and for single travelers like myself, just $10 unpowered sites.
After setting up under some shady trees, I’m invited to my first ‘Happy Hour’ by neighbours, Peter and Glenda Gardiner from Yamba, NSW who are travelling around in a palatial American fifth-wheeler that makes the otherwise well-equipped New Age van I'm in look like a teardrop camper by comparison.
The friendly couple put on a delicious spread of nibbles and tell tales of their travels, which is followed by a tour of all the vans. Glenda leaves her contact details, asking me to keep in touch, so if you’re reading this Glenda, hope the road is treating you well...
Back on the highway, there's the obligatory detour to legendary Daly Waters Pub, which has an eye-opening array of undergarments and other quirky interior decorations. After a cold lager in the beer garden, the next stop is tiny Larrimah, where I’m looking forward to one of the famous roadside pies at Fran’s Teahouse.
Unfortunately Fran’s shut up shop by the time I get there at 3pm, so I grab a photo outside the Pink Panther pub and look ahead to a relaxing thermal springs soak or two at my next overnight stop in Mataranka…
FOOTNOTE: It’s always interesting to see how other travelers set up camp when on the road, and during this stretch I witness both ends of the spectrum…
At Banka Banka, I spot a fully kitted up motorcycle camper, who looks like he has so much gear he could survive for weeks on end without assistance.
Then outside the Daly Waters pub, I can hardly miss the massive Denning bus-based motorhome, towing a two-level trailer carrying both a fishing boat and 4WD vehicle.
Then outside the Daly Waters pub, I can hardly miss the massive Denning bus-based motorhome, towing a two-level trailer carrying both a fishing boat and 4WD vehicle.
I reckon if I’d asked, they would have both been having a whale of a time, although for very different reasons…
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Written byChris Fincham
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Please see our Editorial Guidelines & Code of Ethics (including for more information about sponsored content and paid events). The information published on this website is of a general nature only and doesn’t consider your particular circumstances or needs.
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