Don't leave home before checking

Don't forget to give your RV a quick once-over before hitting the road

Caravans and camper-trailers don’t have a lot of mechanical bits thrashing around to give you grief but if something does go wrong with them out on the road it can be an unpleasant surprise for you and your family.

It makes sense then to give the van or camper the once-over before heading off, especially if it has been sitting idle for a while.

A good pre-trip check should take no more than two hours, and that’s taking your time. Best to tackle it a week or two before you plan to head off so you’re not rushing to fix any problems you might find with the family glaring at you by the car, ready to hit the road.

GET YOUR BEARINGS

Bearings and brakes are the number-one problem area for vans and campers. They should be checked every six months or 10,000km, but it’s not a bad idea to check them over before your trip anyway.

If you’re not too confident with the spanners, you can still do the basics. Jack up each wheel off the ground (with handbrake off, so chock the other wheels or hitch up to your tow vehicle) and grab the wheel and the top and bottom and try rocking the wheel.

You shouldn’t be able to feel anything but the slightest movement. Now try spinning the wheel, and notice if it seems to be binding. Also check that the handbrake cables have some slack.

If the wheel is binding or the wheel has a fair bit of top-to-bottom movement, you’re going to have to dig deeper. Wheel binding can be because the brake shoes are not releasing properly or are adjusted too tightly and top-to-bottom wheel movement is the result of a either too loose and/or a damaged wheel bearing.

If you’re all good with the above, return the wheel to the ground and check wheel nut tension. If you have a torque wrench, make sure the wheel nuts are nipped up to 130Nm.

While you’ve still got the socket set out, run over the suspension bolts to make sure none are loose.

TREAD CAREFULLY

Caravan tyres should be checked regularly for pressures as well as tread wear and other signs of deterioration — if you see tiny cracks in the rubber the tyre’s definitely shot, never mind how much tread it’s got left.

Check the four-digit manufacturing date on the sidewalls (such as 2013, which means the tyre was made on the 20th week of 2013). If the tyres are more than six years old, you should replace them even if not yet cracked. The rubber will have deteriorated and that makes it a sure candidate for a blow-out, especially in the summer heat.

Caravan tyres take a long time to wear (you’re more likely to replace them because they’re too old) but check the tread depth across the tread and any tyres showing less than 3mm depth should be replaced before you go, even though the minimum legal tread depth is 1.5mm. As the tread wears down it also makes the tyre more prone to punctures.

DON’T BE IN THE DARK

Check the taillights by plugging in the tow vehicle and get a spotter to see that brake lights, parking lights, indicators and running lights are all working.

Have a close look at safety chains and shackles - are there any stress fractures or any other evidence of damage? Check the trailer plug to see if pins are broken or corroded, or if wiring is loose.

If lights are not operating, it could simply be pins need to be moved apart slightly, and if this doesn’t work you may need to replace the plug — a simple and cheap thing to do.

Check that the deep-cycle caravan battery is charged (preferably charge it up before you go), that the terminals are clean and that all the interior electrically-powered items such as lights, fridge and electric water pump(s) are working.

Check the gas bottle to ensure it hasn’t reached or is approaching its expiry date (in which case, get it checked/replaced) and see that all fittings are tight and that the gas appliances such as the stove work. Ensure that the smoke alarm battery is not flat, and replace it if in doubt.

All windows should be checked for correct operation and the support legs and jockey wheel all operate smoothly.

EXIT MOULD

Camper-trailer canvas needs to be checked by cracking open the camper and seeing if there’s mould on the canvas. If there are any wear points or splits in the canvas you want to know about it before the first downpour at camp too.

Mould can be brushed off if minor and if the canvas hasn’t rotted. If you can’t shift it a dry brush, try cold water and brushing. There are many mould removers on the market – buy some and follow instructions. You may need to re-treat the canvas to make it waterproof again.

Broken zips or ripped mesh screening are other holiday let-downs, so give the zips a work-out and check out the screens for damage. There are repair kits around if you feel up to a DIY repair, but best to get the professionals to replace the screen and zips if the damage is extensive.

All the awning and annexe canvas, poles, pegs and ropes should be laid out at the very least so you can check that you’re not missing anything. Ideally, set up the lot: you’ll soon find out if there’s a dodgy pole or you left half your guy ropes at the last camping spot.

This might be a good time to give the mattresses an airing in the sun and also wipe down interior surfaces such as hard floors or benches.

If you’ve got jerry cans on the camper, see that the locating brackets are not showing signs of damage and that they lock into place properly.

If it’s a hard floor camper, see that the lock down clamps and struts do their job smoothly.

All you have left to do now is to pack your gear and get to your favourite camping spot!

Don't leave home before checking

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