Traffic jam at Cape York crossing
Post-lockdown adventurers endure long wait at Jardine River ferry crossingWith nowhere overseas to go, many Australians are packing their campers and caravans and heading for Australia’s northernmost tip of Cape York for their holidays, only to find their enthusiasm tested by huge queues to board the ancient ferry across the Jardine River that takes you to Bamaga and on to the Tip.
According to the Jardine Ferry Roadhouse, the length of the queue depends on when you arrive. The peak of the ’dry’ season, or during school holidays is the worst time, with the wait for the only safe and legal crossing of the river stretching up to 90 minutes for one of six available vehicle spots per trip.
At the end of the season, the wait can be minimal, as the locally-operated ferry operates from 8am-6pm on an ‘as required’ basis, sometimes including a one hour lunch break, depending on staffing levels.
The alternative to cross the Jardine is not to be recommended. The river is only narrow at the ferry crossing on the main Bamaga Road, but some locals and intrepid travellers choose to cross at the old ford about 10km away, depending on the season and river level. However, this is done mainly for fun and is officially prohibited.
If you fail, the recovery cost by enterprising locals makes the ferry’s steep $129 return cost for a car and trailer ($99 for a vehicle alone) seem like a bargain.
As it is, the ferry’s cost of more than $2 a metre is said to make the 50 metre crossing the dearest ferry trip per metre in the world.
Also be aware that ferry bookings must be made online or by EFTPOS in advance, so you must produce a printed ticket, an email confirmation or, if you're unable to do that, proof of purchase on a mobile device to the Jardine Ferry roadhouse staff before boarding.
Now the good bit. As the ferry is owned and operated by the local Aboriginal people, the money goes to local indigenous communities, while your ferry fee also enables you to camp free of charge from the Dulhunty River to the Jardine River mouth and all places north, excluding commercial camping grounds.
Alternatively, you can camp right at the ferry crossing for $10/night – payment is at the Ferry Roadhouse, which is also the last place to buy fuel before you get to Bamaga on the Cape proper, 50km further on.
However, if you can delay your trip to the Tip long enough, you may be able to cross the Jardine by a new bridge that is rumoured to be coming.
Just like the bridge across the Wenlock River further south that was completed in 2001, it will make the old ferry service obsolete.
It has been heard on the grapevine that the Federal member for Leichhardt, Warren Entsch has secured the necessary $10 million funding, but the local Aboriginal community is not totally happy, as if and when it opens it will deprive them of their current funding from the ferry.
You can’t please everyone!
Related:
Conquering the Cape
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