THE BIG DASH: Back on track

Thanks to everyone who expressed support or concern for our relationship after last week’s confession. Jane and I are doing fine.

It helped to get out of Kununurra and the disappointing caravan park we had chosen and head to Lake Argyle, the giant artificial dam only around an hour’s drive south-east.

Four days in that spectacular setting, staying in a quality 'van park, did wonders for our mood.

Since then we’ve made our way further westward via overnight stays at a roadhouse called Warnum (the most expensive diesel of the entire trip at $3.90/litre!) and a free stop called Mary Pool (our first true free stop of the entire trip).

Also read:

THE BIG DASH: Now or never

THE BIG DASH: Why we went Chinese

THE BIG DASH: Buying all the bits

THE BIG DASH: Sorting the tow tug

THE BIG DASH: Hitting the scales

THE BIG DASH: On the road, finally!

THE BIG DASH: Onwards and upwards

THE BIG DASH: Getting serious

THE BIG DASH: Soft buggers

Screeeeeeee! There I am big-noting myself to Jane as a careful and competent 4x4 driver and next thing I’m trying to extract the Tasman’s engine via the bash plate.

In my defence we were driving shallowly downhill straight into the sun so what was sharp and rocky looked flat and, er, rocky. Anyway, a reverse – more Screee! – a detour right and all clear.

Then the GoPro fell off the roof down the windscreen giving us a shock. I think after this Jane will never drive anywhere with me again where there’s even a suggestion of off-road.

Anyway, all this demonstration of my incompetence (at securing GoPros as well as off-roading) happened on an otherwise benign track taking us to a lookout above a place called Pannikin Bay at Lake Argyle.

In all the thousands of kilometres completed on this trip this was the first time Tas had been even remotely challenged by the road conditions.

But with permanent 4x4, lots of electronic aids, a lockable rear diff and heaps of ground clearance (although I managed to exceed it!), it had plenty in-hand. In fact, the Tasman X-Pro has more off-road chops than any other Tasman model.

I’ve previously driven it in some really tough conditions and can vouch for it. Much tougher than this little challenge.

The reward for this pain was a breathtaking view. So worth it, I reckon.

Apart from that opportunity to test a different part of its skill set, it was a normal week for Tas. Shackled like a draft horse to the caravan, or cruising quietly as we looked around the interesting places we were staying, it performed without complaint.

Anyway, on to this week’s numbers.

Litres consumed: 140
KM travelled: 822km
Consumption average: 17.03L/100km
$ paid: $406.22 (best price paid: $2.559 per litre)
KM per $: 2.02km (Was 2.79km per $ last week)

Things we enjoyed this week:

Lake Argyle: The healing powers of water. Lake Argyle is Australia’s second-largest freshwater man-made reservoir by volume. It is also part of the Ord Rover Irrigation Scheme, which people often argue the pros and cons of.

But what you cannot argue is how spectacular it is. The drive in is the starting point, wending through ancient, worn Kimberley rock formations that are as glorious as they are decayed. Then the water.

The first true sight of it is at a bridge crossing the Spillway Creek. It was tumbling over the rocks like European snow melt high in the Alps – a very unusual sight for the outback.

Any geographical misconception was ended by the dead croc floating upside down in an eddy. Then, you catch sight of the lake itself; deep blue water stretches between hills as far as the eye can see.

It is a massive, unforgettable, vista.

It holds up to 70 times more water than Sydney Harbour. It stretches so far it looks vertical in the distance, like the way buildings fold up in that Christopher Nolan movie Inception. Thankfully, nothing goes backward like in Tenet – can anyone explain that movie to me?

Lake Argyle sunset cruise: We did a bunch of things while we stayed at Lake Argyle: bushwalked, swam, rode, rested, ate and drank, just enjoyed the place.

But the sunset cruise deserves special mention. It got us up closer to the environment, we saw freshwater crocs, wallabies, plenty of different bird species and even fed catfish.

Up here they actually call catfish Silver Cobbler, purely for marketing reasons. No-one wants to eat catfish apparently, but plenty more will order Silver Cobbler. Sadly, we are told, the taste doesn’t change.

Anyway, the claimed ‘highlight’ of the tour was floating in the lake supported by a couple of pool noodles while drinking a beer. For me that was a bit incongruous.

More inspiring was the ride home into the sunset after the beer drinking. By the way, the tour operator insists swimming in the lake is safe as long as you don’t disturb the ‘freshies’ where they hang out onshore. Unlike the big salties, these guys are pretty timid (allegedly). I hoped so; there’s an estimated 35,000 of them in Lake Argyle!

In the 'van park at Lake Argyle it seemed everyone else had just finished the Gibb River Road or would be off to do it next.

“Are you doing the Gibb?” is the first question everyone seems to ask when you meet them.

Up here it’s a caravanners rite of passage.

No, we have no plan to do the Gibb River Rd. We’re not experienced enough caravanners, we don’t have the right 'van and we are carrying two dogs onboard and that’s problematic for national parks that can be accessed via the Gibb.

We drove past the turn-off when we did our day trip to Wyndham and the sight was symbolic. A family was hanging off the sign getting their ‘victory’ pics taken, while just out of shot a broken caravan was being loaded on to a truck.

Later we had a conversation with a lovely couple who have been traversing the Gibb for decades. Their first time was in a Subaru Outback with a roof tent and their most recent was in 2025 with their current combo of 4x4 ute and off-road trailer.

They spoke with genuine worry about the number of people out there, the increasing size of the rigs attempting it and the lack of skill demonstrated by some of them.

It’s food for thought.

But would I like to do the Gibb River Road one day? Yes, absolutely. But that’s for another trip.

Lake Argyle was our second time staying at a Discovery Park and our second great experience.

The first was at Kings Canyon which combined a spectacular and unique geographic location with quality facilities.

Lake Argyle was the same. Friendly and helpful staff, great facilities including a pub and we got put on a fantastic corner site that was well-shaded and sizable. The bug activity was also well down, which was a big help to Jane who had been eaten alive in Kununurra.

The big deal here is the infinity pool that has the lake as its stunning backdrop.

Everyone loves the view but the big debate on 'van and travel forums is about the water temperature. Lots of people reckon it's too cold. Whimps!

After returning from some sweaty bush bashing on an alleged mountain bike track I reckon it’s just about right.

At the other extreme of our week was our first ever free stop at a place called Mary Pool. No park fees, no allocated site, no power, no water, just a self-reliant home-on-wheels among the gum trees … with about 20 other 'vans.

Mary Pool is rated as one of the best free stops in WA (they are dotted along the highways) and its appeal includes its shaded setting, its seclusion well away from the main road and its toilets. There’s even a dump point. Cows are a free extra.

It’s also situated pretty equidistantly between Halls Creek and Fitzroy Crossing. Neither have a great reputation and we found refuelling at both was stressful enough. Staying there would have been interesting...

Anyway, the next objective of all this travel is Broome, Cable Beach and the Indian Ocean.

Chat to you after we get there.